13.1: Overview

By Rick Kjeldsen (fcmk@watson.ibm.com) and HermanC2@aol.com [Excerpt from FAQ Chapter 1. Ed.]

Modern BMWs started with the 1500, a boxy practical sedan with a 1.5 liter 4 cylinder. The engine was soon enlarged and the body slightly redesigned to make the 2002. This was a small 4-seater with good handling and a powerful motor. It is the car which really started BMW on the path it is today.

Today BMW has three main lines of cars: 3, 5 and 7. However, note that before standardizing on the current 3,5,6,7,8-series designations in the mid-1970's, BMW primarily used engine displacement to name their cars. The most notable example is the 2002.

BMW has used a multitude of numbers and letters over the years, but they have not always been consistent in their application except in the use of the model range as the first number. Thus, there are many exceptions to the designations discussed where the model name may not equate exactly to the characteristics of the car. In addition, the letter 'A' (automatic) or 'C' (convertible) suffix may be appended to the model name; these, however, do not appear as badges except on some older automatic models. The following list has partial explanations of some of the letters used. [Only a few of these apply to the '02 series. Ed.]

A = automatic
C = convertible
CS = coupe sport
i = injection; international
e = ETA (high mpg, high torque, low RPM) engine
L = long-wheelbase; luxury
M = Motorsport
s = sport; also used to denote coupe body in NA markets
t = touring; touring could equate to hatchback, wagon, or
sport versions of early models
td = turbodiesel
tds = intercooled turbodiesel
X = four-wheel drive
Z = models developed by BMW Technik; new roadster designation

1.1.2: Body/Chassis Codes

By HermanC2@aol.com [Excerpt from FAQ Chapter 1. Ed.]

Like many car manufacturers, BMW assigns code names to their models/chassis while they are in development (i.e., E36/2). The 'E' translates from a German word for 'development'. Each 'E-number' refers to a model series (3,5,6,7,8) with variations such as station wagons, hatchbacks, or convertibles. Models created before the E-system have Type numbers. The '02 series are as follows:

 Type/

 Number/    Year     Year

 Variant   (Euro)   (U.S.)   Model                   Body Style

 -------   -------  -------  ----------------------  -----------------

 114       1967-74           1502, 1602, 1802, 2002  2d sedan

 115       1962-64           1500                    4d sedan

 116       1966              1600                    4d sedan

 118       1963-?            1800, 1800Ti, 1800TiSA  4d sedan

 120       1966-?            2000, 2000Ti,           4d sedan

                             2000TiLUX, 2000Tii

 121       1965-69           2000C, 2000CS           2d coupe

 E6                          1600, 1800, 2000,       2d coupe/3d hatch

                             2000 Tii touring

 E10                         2002ti, 2002tii         2d coupe

 E20       1973-74  1974     2002 turbo              2d coupe

13.1.2: 1600/1602

From: Ware Adams
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 15:18:50 -0500
Subject: 1600/1602

>What are the major differences between the 1600 and 1602 (my
>mechanic verified that the car has parts, especially brake bits,
>from both models)?

It depends. In the US most (all?) 1602's were called "1600", so there can be some confusion between two and four door cars. I don't know if this is the case in Australia. If the car has two doors, then it is identical to a 1602. If it has four doors, then many mechanical parts will be identical, but most body/interior parts will be different. I believe that early four door cars did not have the dual diagonal brakes that the '02s came with after the earliest versions, so most brake parts are different, but by 1970 the four doors may have come with the diagonal circuits or the car could have been upgraded as it is an easy change.

Ware
'72 & '74 2002tii

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13.1.3: 2002-Lux

---------------------------
(by wadams@mindspring.com (Ware Adams))

>I just talked to a guy who has what he says is a 2000TiLUX with a 2002Tii

the tilux was a variation on the four door sedans that preceded and ran concurrently with the '02 series. The are quite upright, seated five people easily and significantly rarer than the '02s. They started with the 1500, continued with the 1600 (not 1600-2), 1800 and then 2000. The 2 litre variant had a slightly modified body with much wider tail lights.

On many of these models there were performance/luxury variants. The 1600ti, 1800ti and 2000ti came with dual side draught Solex carbs in a set up that later found its way into the 2002ti and 1600ti (2 door version).

The most interesting, rare and valuable variant of all was the 1800tisa which had dual 45DCOE (I think, maybe 40DCOE) Webers and all sorts of racing set ups (seats, 5 speed CR transmission, etc...). Only 200+ were made for racing certification, and this was really the predecessor to the M3 (but much rarer -- even in its prime).

The variant you are talking about were the 2000tilux which is essentially a 2000ti with some luxury trim and softer suspension (wood dash and centers on the instrument needles etc...). The engine could be from a 2002tii or a 2000tii which was actually produced prior to the 2-door injected model and as it sounds had the mechanically fuel injected engine in the four door body. >a picture of it, whether it came with a Tii engine stock, how easy to get >parts for,

You can see a picture in most BMW books--it looks similar to any of the four door sedans. I know that the Brooklands 1600 Collection has a road test that includes a 1600 and a 2000tilux. Parts are more difficult than 2002s if they do not coincide (eg most engine stuff is identical but body is difficult). However, if your willing to put the time in these cars are not all that rare, so you should be able to get what you need.

With the exception of the 1800tisa these will never be collectors cars, so don't plan on making your fortune with it. However, there are much better ways to do that than cars, and if weird, old BMWs appeal to you I'd say go ahead. It isn't as sporty as a 2002, and it even makes those cars look sleek when sitting next to it, but there are those who like that (read: me).

Sorry to be so long winded. If you decide to pass on this I would be very interested in talking to the person who owns it, so let me know what decision you come to.

--Ware
'72 2002tii

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13.1.4: 2002 tii

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13.1.5: 2002 touring

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13.1.6: Cabriolet

---------------------------

From: BMW@comet.net (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 13:41:06 -0500
Subject: Baur Cabriolets

>As the owner of a 02 'full convertible' by Baur, I have followed the
>recent postings on the subject with interest. There were 1,682
>1600-2 'Vollcabrios' built between January '68 and June '71. In
>addition, exactly 200 >2002 'Vollcabrios' were built between January
>and June '71.

BMW production figures show a chassis # range from 1557001-1558682 for 1600-2 Cabriolets which would mean 1682 built, but an article from the _BMW Journal_ in 1980 about Baur said "1681... from late '67 through early '71". Where'd the other one go? Likewise, chassis # data allows for 200 2002 voll cabs, numbers 2790001-2790200, although the cutoff seems rather arbitrary and no one can account for all 200. I've seen #02 but it was pieced together by AIR (remember them?) from some other car, split across the floor pan; I hope it wasn't another cabrio donor for that frankenstein construction. I doubt there were even 200 made. The highest chassis # I've heard of is from Gunnar, #137.

>The 1600-2 models were only available in three colors, Chamonix
>(white), Granada (red) and Polaris (Silver metallic). The 2002
>models (both 'Vollcabrio' and 'targa') were available in about ten
>different colors.

According to BMW documents, four colors were available for the 1600-2 Cabriolets, (check the '02 parts book): 023 Granada, 085 Chamonix, 003 Mais-gelb (corn yellow), and 057 Polaris (not 060, curiously). I discovered this 4th color while cutting holes in my first Cab for the DOT side marker lights. This car was Sahara Beige but had the strangest beige and yellow carpet. Knowing this wasn't an original exterior color for the Cabs, I scraped one of the slugs left from the marker light install and excavated a yellow color. This car is also one of the few full leather interior cabs built, saddle brown seats, door & side panels, headrests and top boot all leather. Heinz Baur said they built about 30 with leather.

Any interested cabrio people, please respond. See #1333 at our home page.

Phil Marx (*=00=*) BMWCCA #6021
Bavarian Motor Warehouse, Inc.
416 W. Main St.
(804) 293-8269 fax (804) 293-0817
Charlottesville, VA. 22903
Check out our Web page: http://www.comet.chv.va.us/bav/
See the M635CSi and a few other lovely 2 & 4 wheel BMWs

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13.1.7: 2002 Turbo

From: BMW@comet.net (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 14:50:05 -0400
Subject: Turbo 2002

>I think I remember seeing references to a turbocharged 2002 or 2002 tii.
>Does anyone know if A) There is/was such a thing as a turbo 2002 tii,
>B) What it would take to make a regular 2002 tii
>into a turbo edition?
>I have a 72 tii, which is a lot of fun, but I'm sure it would be even
>better if it could be turbocharged! Then maybe I could catch that 400
>HP Porsche that passed me like it was shot from a gun! ;-))

Yes there is such a thing. In fact turbo #149 is sitting on my showroom floor right now. All you need to do to recreate the turbo is purchase a whole lot of expensive parts, drop your compression, add vented rotors, different axles, wider wheels, new injection pump and auxiliary air regulator, alter the body to include flairs, rectangular tail lights, plastic grills, oil cooler, larger radiator, special seats, guages, steering wheel, fuel tank, spoilers, etc. Don't forget to alter your VIN to fit the range of the 1672 that were built.

[tii upgrade description moved to Section 13.9.6]

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13.1.8: Car Shopping and Prices

From: Ware Adams
Date: Fri, 28 Jun 96 23:23:42 -0000
Subject: Inspecting/Pricing

>I will be kicking the tires on a '76 2002 and a '74 2002tii. Any
>high / low price ranges for these models would also help a great.

My opinions only, for what they are worth:

1) Look for rust before all. Anything else can be fixed. Rust can be fixed expensively, and even then you'll wind up comprimising. Check all the usual spots: front indicators (though new fenders are cheap), nose panel (expensive, and US nose panels are NLA for '74 and later cars), rockers (especially on sunroof cars), doors (easy to replace, even if they are good; clean them inside and then spray with Wurth's wax like protector), rear fender lips, rear shock towers, lip around gas tank, spare tire well, pedal box, floor, anywhere else there is metal.

2) Rust-free cars are worth something -- consider buying any you see.

3) Stock cars are worth more -- they are rarer, and one forgets how well-balanced a stock 2002 is. Anyone else will make different modification choices than you will. This is clearly a personal bias, though.

4) Mechanically, '02s are fairly tough. The transmissions (synchros) will go after a while, but they are cheap to repair/replace if you stick with a four speed. Check for oil blow by -- rev to 5k in 1st, lift off the throttle, let the revs fall, and then floor it. If it smokes, the valve guides are likely wearing. If the cars have been sitting, the brakes will likely need work. If the car has a lot of miles, it may well need shocks/springs/bushings. None of these are tough to do -- they make owning an '02 enjoyable.

'76 2002s have a higher (numerically) rear end, so they will run at higher revs on the highway. Also, they have a fair amount of smog gear (and reduced hp, hence the higher rear end). The '74 also has some emissions equipment (relative to the '73 and '72 tii's), but will be noticeably quicker than the '76. Make sure the tii is genuine (a '74 tii's VIN should begin 278xxxx, and should match on the fender (plaque and stamp) engine block, steering column, transmission and door sticker, though the trans. is tough to check, and many door stickers are removed during painting.

Prices will range widely, and vary by location, but a '76 in very good, largely rust-free but unspectacular condition should bring $3-$4k, a similar '74 tii may well be worth $5k or more. I'm assuming very good body condition, fairly stock, but not concours by any means. Note this is very subjective.

Ware '72 & '74 2002tii

From: brian.foster@ccmailsmtp.ast.com
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 96 09:35:32 PST
Subject: '02 valuation opinions

> Prices will range widely, and vary by location

WARNING: Everything below is purely my opinion.

Ware [Adams] is right -- pricing varies by region. In Northern California, the prices seem to be running higher than they are down here in Southern California (by as much as 25-40% higher for the same car).

FWIW, don't even bother with the '76 -- trying to smog the car and the long term enjoyment just aren't there for a California resident with a '76 (or a '75). I know of at least 4 '75/'76 2002's that are wonderful cars in the $2-3K range. I know there will be people that'll argue with me on this, but lets face facts:

1) the smog eqpt. on a '76 is expensive to replace; 2) the smog eqpt chokes the living daylights out of the car; and 3) California will always have stringent emissions inspections.

The 'tii is a different matter. A good 'tii will get over $5k easy, and an excellent one should garner at least $10k. I love 'tii's since they are relatively easy to have modified, they are easier to muster through emissions requirements, and they are sporty enough in character to continue serving as a good daily driver. For example, there is a beautiful silver '74 here in Orange County for sale for $7k, and IMO it is worth very near that. The round tail light cars are even stranger -- for some reason people like them more [not me! :)].

Here is my general rule of thumb: Assume that a '72-'73 in very good condition with no rust is valued at $4-5k. Then adjust various values of other 2002's using the '72-'73 as a benchmark like this:

    '69-'71      : -$250

        '74      : -$500

    '75/'76      : -1500 (add $250-500 back for working smog eqpt)

    '72-'73tii   : +1500 to +2500

    '74tii       : +1000 to +2000

I subtract heavily for color changes (-$500 minimum) and add for unique colors that have not been changed (+$500 on average depending upon the color -- Golf for example is a positive, but Colorado may be a negative or no change). A/C and sunroof add about $250 each (no additional value for Frigiking A/C systems). Tasteful modifications like suspension and brakes, nice steering wheels, and period-correct road wheels all add to the value. Another reasonable addition to value is decent seats, especially if front & back match.

A car with noticeable and significant rust is a car I seriously consider walking away from; in Southern California a little patience can be rewarded with a non-rust car. Nice features can counteract the value of a low rust car to some degree, but eventually you will have to deal with the rust, and that will not be fun.

Any 2002 with a factory close ratio trans adds $500-1000, and limited slip diffs add to the value.

Here are my '02-cents worth: - meet some quality CCA members in the GGC. - look at LOTS of 2002's before buying one -- you'll be surprised how people view their own cars. - locate a quality '02 mechanic with experience, a want, and a desire to work on 2002's and have them check out any car you are interested in buying.

Cheers, Brian Foster

From: Ware Adams
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 18:37:38 -0500
Subject: Better/Worse Models

>What are the better years/models and things to look for on the car?

Many are partial to round tail lights ('68-'73), but '74-'76 have bumpers that will survive better on the streets. The '74 and later cars have more emissions controls and are heavier, so they are slower. '75 and '76 (CA only for '76, I believe) had thermal reactors which can crack heads easily. Also, I believe the '76 had a lower rear end which makes highway driving quite noisy. In any case, the most important thing to look for (and avoid) is rust!

>Are there easy mods that are inexspensive as well that can be done
>to 2002's?

Nothing is that tough -- it's a pretty simple car. A performance carb and suspension set up usually works out quite well.

>How do they compare to the 320i's?

Older, less luxurious, louder, more rust. But also simpler to work on, faster (for given set-up because of weight), and I think more fun. Also, there is a significantly greater 2002 following than for the 320i; realize this drives up their cost.

For all of this you may want to check out the '02 web page: http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~efrank/2002.html

Ware '72 & '74 2002tii's

From: BMW@comet.net (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 14:16:41 -0400
Subject: Buying a used BMW

I've just had such an awful experience, I had to share it with my friends on the list, as much to vent my frustrations as it is a last ditch attempt to help someone else.

We have been consigning a 2002tii for sale for about a month and represented it fairly as an original '73, repainted only, no sheet metal replaced ever and no rust. Several people looking at it were put off by the owner's asking price ($9995) which I said would be negotiable if they made a real offer I could bring to the owner as a reality check. One looker actually went to the O'fest to try to increase his knowledge of these cars and I spent considerable time with him explaining differences and telling him what to look for. Seems he found a '72 tii in PA through a parental business associate, and went to see it and bought it. All so well and good. He called me to tell me about it and just brought it by an hour ago to show it to me and ask my opinion. Ever been in this spot before? It shows up, what do I say? Everything I told him to look for is displayed, textbook style in this bad example which he paid over $8000 for. The car was in the Roundel classifieds (July) as "meticulously maintained" ... "beauty" ... "fully restored" ... "fresh, immaculate example, one of the best to be found anywhere".

Now here's the problem. The car was obviously hit in the front, has a badly fitted new front panel, bent and reworked front frame rails, non-BMW front fenders, poor hood fit, 73 bumber brackets, rust in the rockers you can push your thumb through (and this is not a sunroof car), aluminum screen door extrusion door sill covers *screwed* into the sill, repaired rear outer and inner wheel house so bad you'd cut your hand reaching into the fender opening, with rust bubbling underneath the "new" fjord paint. Even the non-functioning inertia reel seat belt mechanisms are "color matched" as is the edge of the carpet. The door latch buffers are authentic 8-mm fuel line, the $2 5x7 speakers in the rear shelf are so poorly placed as to require remounting of the vapor tank. The seats are not original for the car which is a late '72 (alum. intakes) and the drivers seat was previously the passenger seat of its first mount, complete with the overhang over the door sill and the seat-back release on the *inside*. Normal dash cracks, door panels soggy with no vapor barrier on the doors, and ripped out holes for the panel clips. Wheels are early BBS with the FWD-style curve to the "basket" and 2 are bent. Trunk has center emblem on it, rear panel 2002tii logo is above the horizontal trim with small roundel misplaced below (yes, 2 roundels when viewed from the back).

The owner says he was told the engine was rebuilt at 30k miles (what happened?) but the Roundel ad says rebuilt 30k ago in the mid-80's. The head casting is '80-something but could discern no ser. # on the block. Valve train sounds like a freight train and the total mileage on the car is attested to be 80k. Lots of paper work including an accounting of the butchery executed on the body, about 5 pages with totals like $8k, but with the shop's name cut out of the copies (why). Said it was cause he paid in cash, any IRS folks on the digest? It came shod with A008-Rs with obvious track use but the make-shift seating and inoperative seat belts lead me to believe we had a track-used car "decontented" for resale.

What bothers me about this? That old-line BMWCCA members would mis-represent a car so badly in the Roundel? That maybe they don't know what a good car is? That someone I spent time with was unable to take away enough knowledge to make an informed purchase? That the public's expectations are so far below mine that I'm wasting my time and energy? I don't really know, it's just sort of depressing to see it happen, to know that what I've experienced in 2002 ownership for 25 years will probably not be enjoyed by this owner with high expectations and yet such poor judgement. And what can I tell him, after the fact, about a purchase which he is thanking me for helping him make? Thanks for listing. If you're in the market, listen to what people are telling you!

-Phil Marx BMWCCA #6024 (Sept. Roundel, pg.49)

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13.1.9: Parts & Service

From: MikeUra@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 1996 21:21:11 -0400
Subject: BMW Mobile Tradition and '02 Parts

As posted in the past, I have been very successful in obtaining information regarding my Euro 2002tii Lux from BMW Mobile Tradition. I recently sent them a letter regarding NLA parts and received the following reply.

One part (20-220 KPH Speedo) was available in their warehouse. They provided info on how to order.

They confirmed NLA status of the remaining parts and referred me to "our type specialist for BMW 02-models":

team Andexer
Auf den Pothen 35
42 553 Velbert
Germany
Phone: (0) 2053-922222
Fax: (0) 2053-922223

They carry new and refurbished parts.

They also referred me to "our recommended US 02-specialist":

Maximillian Conover Baltimore, MD Phone: 410-744-2697 Fax: 410-744-5678

BTW, this was my 3rd written inquiry to Mobile Tradition. All three were answered within 2 weeks, thoroughly and above my expectations. Try them:

BMW Mobile Tradition D-80788 Munchen Germany

Mike - 1974 Euro 2002tii Lux

From: Ware Adams
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 09:53:23 -0500
Subject: BMW 2002 Rubber

>Can someone recommend where to purchase rubber for a BMW 2002 doors,
>bonnet, and boot.

You could try:

Maximillian at 800-950-2002. They probably know the most about the cars, but won't be the cheapest.

Bimmer Parts Co at 800-274-2466. I think they have a kit for this sort of thing.

Or a dealer that gives a good CCA discount (Hendrick in North Carolina for example).

Ware
'72 & '74 2002tii

From: OzCS97@aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 22:42:34 -0500
Subject: Ernies Alloys

Ernie's is OK in my past expierence. His specialty is Porsche wheels, and his customers are probably all as fussy you. Now if I can just figure out why I recommend my competitors ...

OZ, alias Robert at the Tire Rack

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13.1.10: Books and References

From: Ware Adams
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 18:37:38 -0500
Subject: Better/Worse Models

... you may want to check out the '02 web page:

http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~efrank/2002.html

Ware
'72 & '74 2002tii's

From: Fred Dushin
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 96 10:00:23 EDT
Subject: <02> posts and alt.autos.bmw

In case people haven't heard, there is a (new?) newsgroup in the alt.* hierarchy dedicated to bmws:

alt.autos.bmw

I will *not* be scanning this newsgroup for 2002-related posts for inclusion in the bmw 2002 mailing list archives:

http://web.syr.edu/~fadushin/archives/

so any post you make there will not be archived. If you want your posts to be archived at the above URL, please continue using the bmw-digest.

Oh, and whoever got people on to the idea of slapping an '<02>' in the Subject: field of messages, thanks. It helps a lot.

-Fred
'73 02, waiting for its annual winter hibernation

From: Curtis A. Ingraham
Subject: BMW Price Book and 2002 Parts Book

BMW sells a PRICE book and a 2002 PARTS book.

The PRICE book is: 88-88-7-000-776 at $16.50 list. It is a stack of 8.5x11 sheets punched for a US 3-ring binder. No binder is included.

The 2002 PARTS book is: 01-09-9-760-244 at $36.50 (first half), and 01-09-9-760-245 at $36.50 (second half) Each half comes in a 4-ring european binder with dividers.

The prices I quoted are from the May 1996 price book. The price book is updated infrequently, but BMW NA sends price updates to the dealers more often; dealers sometimes call these "tape" prices. The price we pay seems to be a loose function of the book price or the tape price. For example, when I bought the May price book, my invoice read $18.98 LIST and $14.02 NET (NET = after club discount), even though the "official" price in the book is $16.50. The parts books cost me $41.98 LIST --> $31.02 NET.

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13.1.11: Folklore

From: "Paul F. Kunz"
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 22:01:27 -0700
Subject: September Roundel

The September issue of the Roundel is dedicated to the 2002, this month being the 30th aniversity of the introduction the the model ... I was disappointed that none of the 2002 articles in the Roundel mentioned some things about the car I thought were significant:

- There were spacers under the shock tower mounts so the head lights whould be a minimum distance above the ground. A standard thing to do, at least I thought it was standard, was to move this spacers to above the shock mounting point so as to lower the car to its original European height. None of the "definitive" Roundel authors seems to have known about that.

- The heresay is that Max Hoffman, first importer of BMW to America, convinced the factory that the 1600 was a great car but it needed the 2.0 Liter engine to be successful. Thus the 2002 was born because of American influence. Now maybe this is just a tale, but I found no mention of it at all.

- There is also one aspect of the 2002 that I wouldn't expect American authors to pick up. In Europe at the time, all sedans were four doors. The 2002 was a very exceptional sedan by the mere fact that it only had two doors. Even cars much smaller than the 2002 had four doors. Except for a few luxury cars, the 2002 was a large car for Europe, yet it only had two doors ... I bought mine in Europe and when I looked at it parked at work, it appeared larger than most of my colleagues cars. But this was France where even the 2CV (deux cheveaux) had four doors.

- There were at least two mentions that the article was written by the orginizer of the annual '02 fest East. But there was no mention of the original and continuing 2002 fest held in California. As _THE_ person who started the first 2002fest, I find this a bit disturbing. Actually, my wife and I dispute who had the idea, but we did motivate the Golden Gate Chapter to host the very first 2002 fest in North America. We had 75 rust free (except for one) 2002s in that first event. I didn't find any mention of this event in the special issue Rondel. I think it worthy of mention, since I think that no where else in the world can you find so many 2002 in the same parking lot except at a 2002 fest (East or West coast versions).

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13.2: Body

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13.2.1: Rust

From: bthongsa@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 15:22:05 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 2002 turn signal rust

>I just started the job of replacing most of the rubber body gaskets
>on my 2002, and have found the beginnings of the usual rust along
>the top of the front turn signal cavity. I am going to sand this
>down and paint it with a rust inhibitor, but eventually the fenders
>will need to be replaced.

This is usually the first place on the fender to rust out. Fortunately, fenders for the 2002 are pretty inexpensive.

>Does anyone have a way to prevent this from happening again with the
>new fenders (or slowing it with the current ones). The insides of
>the cavities for the turn signals are very clean and dry, and the
>rust is on the top, not the bottom. Thus it seems that the crease
>between the top of the turn signal cavity and the bottom side of the
>fender "roof" is catching dirt/moisture, and the rust is growing
>from there. Any successful modifications?

The problem is that the turn signal housing is a "cup", which leaves a space between the top of the cup, and the underside of the top of the fender. Great place for mud, water, salt, etc. to collect. The problem is made worse on some cars by the factory undercoating. Seemingly, some cars only received a little undercoating in this area, while others were loaded up. The ones that had minimal undercoating tended to last _longer_ than the loaded up ones. The undercoating would crack as it got old, making an even better moisture trap.

The entire area in general is a mud/moisture trap, causing the nose panel to rust in the same area.

>I believe I remember Mike Self suggesting in the Roundel about 10
>years ago that badly rusted fenders could just have the area around
>this crease removed, but that seems like a solution one would use
>for rust that already exists rather than preventing it on new
>fenders.

The solution, if your fenders are not too rusty, is to cut out the top of the cup that the signal is in. Extend the vertical wall of the cup up to the roof of the fender (provided that this area is still good). That way, there is no 1/4-in gap or so for dirt to collect in. Mike gave a lecture on this at Gateway Tech last year. And I'm sure he'll be doing so again this year.

For new fenders, I normally just prime and paint the area well. I don't undercoat it. And I just flush out the fenders when I wash the car.

Actually, there was a terrific article on 2002 rust, written by Mike Self, in a Roundel about 10-12 years ago. I can dig it up if anyone's interested.

Ben

From: "TENCCUA.BRUMWE01"
Date: 18 Jul 1996 16:45:16 EDT
Subject: Floor and frame rail rust

Maximillian sells replacement floor pans for '02s now. They ain't cheap, but they look good. The driver's side one may have the gas attachment dohicky. A rusty frame rail is another matter.

My '02 had rusty floors and the gas pedal also came off. I had a local guy who builds dirt track cars weld some new sheet metal into the floors after removing the cancer. He used the old pedal attachment dohicky and welded it in the correct spot. Works like a champ. Fortunately my frame rails were in good shape. My guess is replacing frame rails can be done. It just depends on how much you want to spend.

matt brumwell, smoky mountain chapter 'cca, '75 2002, '87 535is, '88 M3

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13.2.2: Badges and Emblems

From: Ware Adams
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 15:20:38 -0500
Subject: 2002tii Badge

>I have two new in bag turbo nameplates, 51-14-1-834-966 (NLA), but I
>want $15,000 a piece for them, cheap when you consider they'll make
>your car almost like the real thing. Or might trade for similar
>condition "2002tii" emblem for early cars, might.

I'm sure Phil wants the early tii emblems so badly because the originals are NLA. The best tip I ever got from the list (from Ben Thongsai) was that the 2002tii badge that went on the touring will fit the early tii. It is a little more compressed than the real thing, but the pins fit into the holes on the body perfectly, and for some reason these emblems are still available (or they were as of a year ago).

--Ware

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13.2.3: Doors

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 07:58:14 -0700
Subject: Door Latch Difficulty

>I'm having difficulty closing the passenger side door on my '76
>2002. The latch will not engage unless I slam the door. This usually
>takes 3-4 tries

This can be caused by a loose strike plate on the door jamb. It appears to be tight but moves inward when you close the door. Try loosening it, moving it outward slightly, then tightening it. If that helps, adjust it so the door is flush with the body when closed, then tighten it securely.

Sam Chien-shin Lin adds:

You need to adjust the striker plate. The hardest part is trying to get that huge phillips screw loose. I had to use an impact driver with a screw tip. You hit it hard with a hammer, and it turns a fraction of a turn to break the screw loose.

After loosening the screws, try adjusting the plate outwards a little at a time until it closes right.

From: sphan@sdcc5.ucsd.edu (Stanley Phan)
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 21:12:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Door seals

I replaced my original door seals about a year ago. I used 3M Weatherstripping glue. Works very well and is easy to clean up; it's sort of like industrial strength rubber cement. One thing that was a big concern was that new seals made the doors very difficult to close. I'm not sure if this a normal thing. It took almost a year before the doors seals were reasonably broken in so the doors could close easily.

-Stanley Phan
'72 02

From: fbeck@acs.bu.edu (Fred Beck)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 12:43:08 PST
Subject: Door seals

Replacing Door Gaskets (2002): (1) Stanleys' suggestion for 3M glue sounds good. I used a Wurth product, which is also basically a strong rubber cement. (2) You might try acetone as a solvent. I used a scraper to gently scrape off the old adhesive. (3) I also found that the doors are hard to close after replacing the seals. They are easier to close with the windows down. I ran into a problem with the window glass sticking to the door seals and tearing them. I think this was after a hot day. I sprayed the seals with silicone and it seems to help.

--Fred
'73 2002tii

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13.2.4: Seats

From: Bruce Showalter
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 96 22:00:27 -0000
Subject: Horse hair seat pads

I am interested in breathing new life in my seats. I'm not too keen on changing to the 3 series seats yet, but the horse hair pads are running about $79 dollars each so that comes out to about $160 per seat. I'd like to keep the car as stock as possible, so for the moment the horse hair pads seem the most likely.

Bruce Showalter

From: Barry Wellman
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 18:50:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Seatbelt / Starter Interlock

This is a tale of the dreaded seatbelt interlock, found (thankfully enough) only on 1974 North American spec. models:

In July 1974, Bev & I got our new North American spec. '02 through European delivery at Park Motors, central London. It was a matter of great admiration to all, because of the big kick-ass bumpers. (Especially admired in our drive down the Dalmation coast, I recall.)

On delivery, we drove straight to our UK insurance brokers to get coverage. For some reason, we got lost in London, and parked to phone for directions. (Yes folks, in those ancient times, bimmers did not have cellphones.) When we returned to the car, it would not start - only 5 miles and 30 minutes after delivery. In consternation, we called Park Motors.

"Oh," they said, "you are a victim of US safety regulations which newly require that a car won't start unless you are sitting in it with your seat belt buckled."

"But we are!"

They thought, and then realized that BMW engineers had assumed that broad Bavarian butts would be occupying the driver's seat. (Compiling with Naderization was not BMW's forte in those days.) The solution:

"Jump up and down on the seat a few times so that the interlock sensor will think that you are heavier."

It worked!

What worked even better was our first mod: disconnecting the interlock system entirely the next day. It was well engineered for such purposes, merely requiring undoing a simple snap-in wiring connection under the driver's seat.

The car never gave us any trouble after that, including doing a 5K kilometre circle tour of European back roads and mountain passes.

We've only driven small BMWs ever since; we're on our third one (1990 ix). We christen each new purchase by jumping up and down on the driver's seat. They, too, have never given us any trouble.

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13.2.5: Glass

From: Bruce Showalter
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 96 22:00:27 -0000
Subject: Windshields

I have been calling around to various San Francisco/Bay Area glass installers to find what is available and for how much. The best prices I have found so far are around $230 for BMW OEM windshields, or $120 for domestic "premium" glass (one company mentioned Pittsburgh Glass as a supplier) uninstalled. I have been warned by several people that going with a domestic non-OEM glass often results in leakage.

Bruce Showalter

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13.2.6: Upholstery

From: Ware Adams
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 96 23:17:48 -0500
Subject: Bleached out seats and carpet

>Has anyone tried to refresh the colors by whatsoever means ? How
>were the results ? Are new seat covers available ? (They are not in
>Germany, at least not for the blue cloth/vinyl interior that I
>have).

There is a US company called World Upholstery and Trim that has a lot of NLA '02 interior fabrics (that they remanufacture). They advertise in Hemmings Motor News which is probably unavailable in Europe, and I think they have a web page at www.worlduph.com

Another option is to get in touch with Jaymic in England:

Jaymic Ltd Norwich Road Cromer Norfolk, NR27 0HF ENGLAND Wk: 44 263 511710 Fx: 44 263 514133

I believe they remake some seat covers and carpets as well.

Good luck,
Ware
'72 & '74 2002tii

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13.3: Engine

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13.3.1: Emissions

From: Keith Gawlik
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 1994 22:15:49 -0700 (MST)
Subject: 2002 Emissions

I just jumped through the annual emissions hoop here in Colorado.

The current emissions levels for a '75 2002 are 3.5% CO and 600 ppm HC. My car, with a Weber carb, passes fine without the smog pump, but I have to put on the air injection equipment to pass the visual inspection. With that stuff on, I passed with 1.16 % CO and 83 ppm HC (at idle), and 0.26 % CO and 46 ppm HC (at 2500 rpm). Only the idle reading counts in the current test.

When the enhanced emissions program begins in the Denver metro area in January, the emissions standards above will still be used. There will also be a test that the gas cap seals, and that the A/C is not leaking freon. The two additional tests are for '75 and newer cars.

It's a relief that I won't have to go through the IM240 lanes. These are for '81 and newer cars, and involve the dyno test mentioned in the Roundel. In this region, the testing centers are not built yet, and state legislators are getting so steamed up about it they are considering finding a way to delay the start of the program. I read that in Maine and Pennsylvania, the program has been delayed because of revolts and reconsiderations. Envirotest, based in Phoenix, has the exclusive contract to run the centers in Colorado, and has been the center of a controversy. Apparently, the Health Dept., which is in charge of the air quality program, awarded this company the contract even though two other companies were lower bidders, and Envirotest is not ready for a single test yet.

The goal in this area is a 30 % reduction in CO by the end of next year, or else the region faces sanctions in the form of having withheld $320 million in highway funds and requiring industries to install scrubbers.

In any case, I believe it depends on the region how exactly the IM240 test is implemented. The GAO has made statements that the IM240 is so unreliable that a repaired car still may not pass.

As far as 2002s go, it won't be a problem getting the test done in this region for next year. I think it'll only be a matter of time, though, before the older cars have to go on the dyno, and they'll be tested for NOx, CO, and HC through a simulated driving cycle. Either that, or the state will decide that you simply can't use any older car on certain days in winter, which was proposed last year and promptly shot down (don't get me started on this).

Keith Gawlik    gawlik@colorado.edu
Boulder, CO    (303) 384-6260
'71 R75/5, '75 2002

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Mon Aug 12 09:40:08 1996
Subject: tii smog test results

Here are the California smog test results for my '72 2002tii:

            Before Adj  After Adj          Maximum 

Emission       10-93      10-93     1-95   Allowed

----------- ----------  ---------  ------  -------







HC (ppm)    390          196       313      350

CO (%)        7.54         2.62      5.91     6.5

CO2 (%)       9.9         13.0       9.3

O2 (%)        0.9          1.0       3.9

The 10-93 test was performed by a bargain-basement smog test shop. As you can see from the "Before" and After" measurements, the mechanic was able to make a huge change in emissions even though he seemed to have no particular knowledge of the tii engine. I suspect that an experienced tii mechanic could produce good emissions and good running, too.

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13.3.2: Poor Performance

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13.3.3: Cylinder Head

From: "Steve D'Gerolamo"
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 14:36:37 -0400
Subject: Valve Cover Nut Torque

>I tightened the valve cover nuts to "tight enough" ie by feel,
>not wanting to bust off the studs from the head. Looks like
> it's not enough ... Ready to apply the correct amount of torque,
>if I only knew what it was! Checked Haynes, couldn't find it.

I believe the figure is around 9-10 lb-ft, below the range of most torque wrenches. Use a 1/4" drive wrench with the appropriate 10-mm socket and tighten gently and carefully (with one hand). The aluminum valve covers will crack from overtightening. (Be sure and use a 6-mm spring washer under each nut -- you can enhance the appearance by changing the nuts to nickel chromate dome nuts.)

Steve D'Gerolamo c/o The Ultimate Garage, Emerson, NJ (201-262-0412)

From: "Richard W. Hall"
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 22:45:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: 02 value cover torque settings

Just went through the same drill on my '74 2002tii. Hand tight just didn't stop the leaking. Haynes calls the valve cover a rocker cover and specifies 8 lb-ft. Also checked BMW service manual; couldn't find specific numbers for valve cover, but it specifies 8 lb-ft for timing chain covers. Manual does have tightening sequence for valve cover nuts:

                6       2       4







    rear                           7    front





                3       1       5



        Numbers are value cover nuts.

Rich Hall
'74 2002tii
'86 535i

From: bmrfamly@nwlink.com (Dan, Marilyn, Phil Patzer)
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 18:35:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Banjo Bolt for oil spray tube

This hollow bolt must have a thick & soft crush-ring both above and below the oil tube. The bolts tend to come loose as the tightening torque is so little, and they're under pulsing pressure to loosen. I install these gently and with a little "Loctite" on clean threads, then I check the bolt tension each time the valve cover is off.

Dan Patzer
the CyberWrench from Bimmers Only

From: "Steve D'Gerolamo"
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 14:36:37 -0400
Subject: Oil Spray Tube & Hollow Bolts

There should be two 8.5x11-mm aluminum crush rings (double thickness) at each hollow bolt. Failure to use these can cause the tube to crush and will cause oiling problems.

Steve D'Gerolamo c/o The Ultimate Garage, Emerson, NJ (201-262-0412)

From: bmrfamly@nwlink.com (Dan, Marilyn, Phil Patzer)
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 05:52:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Ticking engines

Excessive "Valve noise" while the valves are properly set can sometimes be attributed to "flat spots" on the cam lobes, which cause gouges in the rocker scuff pads.

Another more elusive sound source is "CONCAVITY" of the end of the valve stem. As the valve clearance is set, the feeler gauge measures the distance from the valve stem "rim" to the rocker eccentric. In fact, the eccentric contacts the "center" of the valve stem, which may be lower than the rim, thus the excessive clearance.

If you suspect this of a particular valve, because of loose feel by hand, or sound location by stethoscope, compare the rocker to cam clearance of a "good" rocker to the "bad" one. Too bad BMW doesn't publish the expected cam-to-rocker clearance, but it shouldn't be too hard to figure.

An old '02 trick in getting valve clearances back to "spec" was to use a "VALVE-stem LASH-cap" (8-mm valve stem) from an Alph Romeo, or even from certain VW's, atop the problem valve. This will give a flat, albeit taller surface for the rocker to contact. The "eta" engine has 7-mm valve stems, and I've never looked for 7-mm lash-caps. I'll start asking around.

The 8-mm lash-caps are available on the aftermarket. Get the "Hardened" ones. Give a call if you need help installing them.

Dan Patzer
the CyberWrench from BIMMERS ONLY 206-743-2002

From: Bren
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 1996 17:48:34 -0700
Subject: Adjustable Cam Sprocket

>What is the principal of the adjustable sprocket on a SINGLE
>OVERHEAD CAM engine like the 02? I can understand varying the
>intake/exhaust timing on a DOHC engince, but this relationship would
>seem to be "fixed" on a SOHC?

The cam gear that you refer to is not variable; it is adjustable. The principle works like this.....

When you mill your block and head a lot, the cam is then retarded from where the designer intended the lobes to be. By advancing the cam timing, you are able to get the correct valve timing.

Bren

From: donohue@azstarnet.com (Terry Donohue)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 23:31:40 -0600
Subject: Rocker Ratio

>I am attempting to determine what cam I have in my 2002. The
>machinists working on my engine suggested that if I find out the
>rocker ratio, he could determine the degree of the cam. (There isn't
>a casting on the cam indicating its duration). This car is running
>40 DCOEs and high CR pistons so I'm thinking that the cam may not be
>stock (264 degree duration) but I'm not sure. Is there a rocker
>ratio associated with the different cam durations?

BMW used exactly the same rocker arm geometry for the original 4 cyl. engines from '63 through '83. Unlike some American car tuners, where the effective lift of a cam can be increased through changing the rocker arm geometry, this was never done with BMW's to the best of my knowledge. So all cams, from stock to Schrick 336 used the same rocker arm geometry.

The precise ratio is a subject of debate, though. Schrick says it's 1.31 (valve lift/cam lift); everyone else has measured a smaller number: Metric Mechanic, Lee Johnson, and Webcam get 1.25; Pete McHenry measures 1.23; I've measured 1.24. In any case, the best way to determine what type of cam you have is to measure the cam itself, which is easy to do in the head. Measuring cam lift is much more accurate than trying to measure duration. Measure the base circle (stock is 26.8 mm); then measure the "heel to toe", which is the top of the cam lobe to bottom of the circle. Stock is 6.88 mm; the BMW/Alpina 300 is 7.66; a Schrick 304 is 8.15. I have measurements for a number of other cams if you're interested.

Terry Donohue
'71 2002Ti
'90 Audi 200TQ
'95 M3

From: Andrew West
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 16:06:06 +1000
Subject: Exhaust smoke

>I thought my car didn't burn oil at all, but recently I've noticed
>an increase in the puff of smoke that comes out of the tailpipe
>immediately after starting the car. Otherwise there is no smoke
>whatsoever, and it only seems to happen after prolonged periods
>when the car is parked (overnight). What causes this to happen?

The usual cause of the symptoms you describe is worn valve-stem oil seals.

When the engine is stationary one of the exhaust valves is often open (it has something to do with another cylinder being on the compression stroke and stopping before top-dead-centre when you switch off). A little oil drips down the stem into the cylinder, and when you start the car it gets burnt: hence the smoke, and a little oil makes a lot of smoke!

The common test for this (an old 2002 buyer's check) is to rev the engine to about 4500 RPM in neutral, back off the throttle, and then floor it again briefly when it has wound down to about 1500 RPM. The strong vacuum caused by closing the throttle at high revs tends to suck oil past the inlet valve oil seals, and causes a short puff of smoke when the throttle is opened again. You could try this test. Another way to check the same thing is to select a low gear and descend a steep hill with the engine spinning above 3500 RPM with a closed throttle. Get back on the power at the bottom of the hill and check how much of a grey cloud follows you!

I had your symptoms as an "intermittent" problem on a newly-rebuilt engine (Datsun) that had one leaky exhaust valve seal. If stopped overnight with THAT valve open, it would smoke in the morning, otherwise not. It took a while to diagnose.

Andrew West, '83 318i, BMW Club Queensland, Australia

From: Ware Adams
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 96 23:07:51 -0500
Subject: head replcement questions

From a 2000CS I rebuilt (engine same as 2002ti):

>If I take the entire head out with manifolds attached, is this how
>it should go back on, or should I bolt the head and then attach the
>manifolds?

I was rebuilding the carbs as well. I found it easiest to pull the head with the manifolds and carbs attached, remove everything, put the head back by itself and then put the manifolds and carbs on. On the ti engine there is a coolant tube beneath the manifolds that is easier to handle this way, IMO.

>Anything else I should be aware of that's not covered in Chilton's?

If you mill the head, make sure you mill the front timing chain cover as well.

Ware
'72 & '74 2002tii

From: Oleg Perelet
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 1996 21:48:49 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: head replacement technique

>Can I take the entire head out with the manifolds attached ?

Just undo three 17-mm nuts at manifold/downpipe and take whole thing out. After, it will be easy to get exhaust/intake nuts out. Better buy new exhaust nuts; they are not pricy.

>Can I re-use these head bolts if they look alright? I've heard
>conflicting advice about whether these bolts are designed to strech.

About head bolts: on normal 02's (<11:1 compression) stock ones are good; I never heard any complains about them, but there are places that sell $$$ replacements.

>Hoping new valve seals will stop my burning oil problem

For one month, maybe. If you are taking head off/apart, get new valve guides and ask your friendly machine shop to freeze them in (usually they charge about $6-10 per guide).

Oleg.
E30M3&02's

From: Oleg Perelet
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 12:44:04 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: E12 Head and Flat Piston lower end = Good Combo ?

- Factory correct? - NO
- Create higher compression? - NO
- A bad idea? - NO (if it's really rebuilt & cheap)
- Create less compression? - YES
- A good option?- NO (but again if it's rebuit & cheap, YES)
- Mess up an engine quicker? - NO

Oleg
E30M3&02's

From: Fredrik Skog
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 14:18:52 +0200 (MET DST)
Subject: 1802 head code number

The head marked 118 comes from an 1802, which I believe never were sold in the states, but is quite common here in Europe. The 118 head has smaller valves and the older style combustion chambers with higher CR. If you have this head, then you most likely also have a 1.8-l bottom end with 80-mm bore and 71-mmm stroke (same crank as the 1602).

Fredrik Skog, '70 2002 ti
WWW: http://www.ts.umu.se/~skog/

From: MrBren@aol.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:49:46 -0400
Subject: cylinder head code# for 2002

The 118 head is from an earlier 1.6 or 1.8 liter car.

Bren

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13.3.4: Ignition

From: Filippo Morelli
Date: Mon, 17 Jun 1996 15:43:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Electronic Ignition

>The old points ignition in my 73 2002 is a little weak for the dual
>Mikunis I have feeding the engine now. I was thinking of replacing the
>points with a Pertronics Ignitor and installing an MSD 6AL box & coil.
>Anybody have experience with either of these products?, installation
>tips?, btw, does the 6Al require a Tach adapter for the factory tach?

I've done this conversion at several levels. My recommendation is to purchase the MSD6AL and VDO tach adapter. You do not need the Pertronics junk. The points can be used as a signal for the MSD (the instructions explain). This works great, as the points simply become a switch - gap and wear no longer become an issue.

With the new setup, I'd recommend getting an MSD coil and a decent set of plug wires -- Taylor SpiroPro 8-mm can be ordered in a "roll your own" set which allows you to cut the wires to the right size for the car. Once you have the setup working, look to increase your plug gap, as the MSD will be capable of bridging a larger gap. I ran NGK plugs with my setup -- you may decide to use Bosch.

With the Mikunis, you will notice easier cold starts more than anything else.

Filippo
P.S. You can purchase the setup fairly cheap from Summit Racing.

From: Joe Fahy <72510.1173@CompuServe.COM>
Date: 16 Aug 96 06:37:11 EDT
Subject: Pertronix Ignition

I installed the Pertronix unit on my '74 911S Porsche, and it works great, a highly recommended point/condensor replacement. I used an Allison (Crane) optical system previously; it uses an LED/receiver pair with a slotted shutter between the LED and the receiver. The fit and quality of the Pertronix unit is better than OEM. I have been using the Pertronix unit for about 1.5 years.

Joe Fahy
'88 ///M5

From: BMW@comet.net (Bavarian Motor Warehouse) Phil Marx
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:37:47 -0400
Subject: tii spark plugs

>What is the appropriate spark plug rating when running 9.5:1
>compression with a 285 (or so) cam in an E12 head? The factory spec
>for this CR is W175T30 (Bosch), but this is with the stock cam.
>(This seems like an old numbering system, or is it still used?)
>Previously I had 8.3:1 CR pistons and Bosch W8DC or NGK BP5ES plugs.
>For the last year I've run Bosch WR9DC with the low compression
>pistons and they worked fine, but I prefer the NGK.

I would try the NGK BP6ES and if you have no problem with fouling, they should be fine. I've always found my tii's ran the best, particularly in the city, on NGK BP5ES, but I've used the 6's on the track with good results

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13.3.5: Rebuilding

From: selig@powdml.ENET.dec.com
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 96 10:13:09 EDT
Subject: <02> tii engine rebuilding info

From Fred Beck's questions concerning rebuilding his tii engine:

Q: Does the compression test with oil injected give a good measure of the valve condition? i.e., I know that 125 psi is poor, but could this be due solely to the rings and walls, even with the oil squirted in?

A: The "wet" test certainly indicates that you have a ring/piston problem but the 125 might also suggest leakage by the valves. Your best diagnostics here is a leakdown test. Send me e-mail if you need futher info. on the leakdown test.

Q: I am considering either 9.5:1 or 10.0:1 pistons. My purpose is to get the most power that I can without requiring higher than 93 octane gas. Any comments on what kind of pistons to get and where to obtain them are appreciated. As long as I won't run into detonation problems, I figure I might as well go with 10.0:1, right? Also, I figure that the new pistons should include the wrist pins. Are there likely to be any problems in fitting these to my existing rods?

A: The new pistons will come fitted with new wrist pins and rings. I have always favored using the Hastings chrome-moly rings sets with a four-piece oil wiper ring. Most new pistons I've seen have been fitted with Deves rings as OEM equip. I would not go with higher than 9.3 or 9.5. You might need to mill the engine deck or head surface which is going to raise your compression I think you'll have problem running "ping free" on 94 octane. So unless you are ready to feed "octane booster" to your car, I would stay away from the 10:1

Q: In the 2002 FAQ it is stated that "When performing a total engine rebuild, ALWAYS balance the entire bottom end rotating assembly. This includes the pulleys, crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, and clutch assembly." How is this done? I know it is important for the pistons and piston/rod assemblies to weigh the same, within some small tolerance, but how does one balance the whole assembly?

A: Complete engine balancing is done by a machine shop with special lathes and balancing equip (scales and strobes). Here in the Boston area lots of race engine builders and high perf. shops use Linskog Engineering in Boxboro, MA.). You leave them all rotating mass components (crank, rods, pistons, pins, flywheel, clutch assembly, crank pulley, etc).

Q: It is also stated that "total seal piston rings (or other gapless designs) work excellently on all piston applications, and are worth the extra money. Your motor will last longer, have less blowby, and make more horsepower." It sounds like these rings are a good idea. Do most parts houses carry them (i.e. Greenefield, Hendrick, BAS)? If not, where do I get them?

A: I've always used Hastings rings with great success. You might try speaking with Marlboro Central Service in MArlboro, MA (near the Marlboro airport). The machinist I talked to there was Swartzy. Any shop that does alot of BMW machine work will also know the specialty stuff -- freezing in valve guides, using special guide seals, Hastings or Sealed Power ring sets, etc.

Another machine shop that you might contact that has an excellent reputation in the Boston area is:

  Precision Machine and Balancing
  (don't confuse with Precision Eng. Rebuilding)
  Ted Wingate
  Hudson, NH

You seem to be on a tight schedule; I would not recommend rushing a machine shop for quick turn-around. Most of the "great" machine shops will have several weeks backlog. This is a busy season for racing, restorations, etc. You might want to consider a "donor block" to use in the short term; that way you can take your time on doing the "real" rebuild correctly.

Jonathan

From: selig@powdml.ENET.dec.com
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 96 09:24:14 EDT
Subject: tii engine block

>Is there a way to distinquish externally a tii engine block?

The tii block has a fitting below where the oil filter housing mounts to the block. This fitting is for the oil return line. This is unique to the tii, but can easily be blocked off if you plan to use a tii block with a carburetor setup.

Jonathan
'87 535is
'72 2002tii (undergoing restoration and 5-spd conversion.

From: ausdal@charlie.ece.sc.edu
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 96 22:48:10 EDT
Subject: oil pan gasket replacement

So you have an oil leak on the front of your '02.

Removing the oil pan is a juuust-enoughhhhh-roooommmm scenario if you don't jack up the motor. Loosen the driver's side mount some if you want. If the oil pan is removed with the crankshaft (and moon and planets) correctly oriented, and you remove the oil pump and drop it into the pan, it will happen. Replacing the gasket is fun, because you must take care not to knock it off as you put the pan back in place. Hmmm, better lift the motor an inch or two anyway.

It's a good time to check the bearings and replace the oil pump if it's got many miles on it. Shim the oil pump as necessary. You can't remove the oil pump chain (unless it has a master link), so shimming is your option.

The front crank oil seal can be replaced in-car. Good luck getting the crank nut off. You need a long breaker bar, a 30-mm socket, and a 4x4 block of wood in the crankcase to keep the engine from turning. Make sure you clean up any wood shavings afterwards. The timing cover leaks are no fun to fix.

thi v.

From: Fred Dushin
Date: Sat, 10 Aug 96 11:12:04 EDT
Subject: oil pan and timing chain gasket replacement

>>Is it possible to replace the oil pan gasket without hoisting the
>>engine off the mounts? without dropping the subframe?
>
>You may be able to get away without using hoisting the engine off
>the engine mounts but I'm not sure it if it's worth the trouble or
>if you will be successful. I removed my oil pan recently and
>received some interesting solutions to this problem. The engine
>needs to be raised to allow the oil pan to get past the oil pump.
>If you don't raise the engine you will need to remove all the bolts
>on the oil pan, then reach in blindly and remove the bolts for the
>oil pump.

You might as well lift the engine off its mounts. You're likely to go through a few gaskets if you don't, since you'll have to get it around the oil pump, regardless.

With a floor jack, support it by the tranny, unless you have an auxiliary component (a/c, eg) up front. You may want to do the lifting off the pan, though. The hardest part is getting the engine back on the mounts, especially on the passenger side. You'll likely need four hands (get extra help refitting the gasket).

Oh, make sure to remove the radiator, too, since you'll want the front clearance.

>>"while I'm in there" is there anything else I should take the time
>>to replace? oil pump? I'll replace the timing cover oil seal if I
>>end up in there.

You might as well do the pump, if you have the money. Raising the motor is a sufficiently time consuming job that it may be worth it to do it now (depending on how many miles you have on it). If you're going to have the timing cover off, why not do both the oil pump chain and the timing chain? A new timing chain will reduce engine noise significantly.

Fred Dushin
WWW: http://web.syr.edu/~fadushin

Back to top

13.3.6: Fuel Pump, Lines, and Tank

From: Ware Adams
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 22:59:01 -0400
Subject: 2002 electric fuel pump conversion

>Also, in a 2002 factory service manual there is a section about
>converting a standard '02 from the mechanical to electric fuel pump.
>This is a trunk mounted pump, not the tii one.

From section 13 31 055 of the 2002 factory service manual ("Fitting of Electrical Fuel Pump"):

Fit pump in correct position, but do not secure (vertical orientation between right rear wheel well and fuel filler neck inside trunk. Held to wheel well arch via a bracket.).

Take floor panel out of luggage compartment.

Drill fastening holes in the wheel arch column with a diameter of 10.5 mm.

..stuff about connecting fuel lines omitted...

Connect cable to the fuel pump and to the loom section under the instrument panel on the left hand side. The picture shows a standard 2002 single wire connector, but the text implies you must run the wire from the instrument panel -- you may want to check if it is pre-installed. Anyway, it sounds like the suggestion that power comes from a wire under the dash is correct. The manual also says to refer to the wiring diagram which should be in the owners manual.

Connect earth cable to the fuel pump and the car body.

From: Curtis A. Ingraham
Subject: <02>tii fuel pump specs
Date: 11 Jul 1996

>Does any body know the flow rate or pressure rating for the electric
>fuel pump fitted to a '73 2002tii

And William Boyd responded:

>the pressure rating is 29 psi. (2 Atm. aprox.)

Some additional specs from the Repair Manual are:

 Delivery Rate:  110 liter/hr (24.2 Imp_gal/hr, 29.0 US_gal/hr)
 Operating Voltage:  7 to 15 volt
 Operating Current:  4.7 amp at 12 volt
 Fuse:  8 amp

The BMW part number is 16-12-1-107-414, and the BMW Price Book price is 375.00 (May 1996); it was 254.88 in the previous edition! (All prices are in U.S. dollars.)

The Bosch generic part number is GFP-251. Some prices I got for this a few months ago were:

 255 BMW dealer
 255 Noble
 190 Bavarian AutoSport
 180 BMP
 165 German Auto Salvage, aka Wolf Sport
 160 Ultimate Source

From: "Steve D'Gerolamo"
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 1996 10:06:07 -0400
Subject: 2002tii Fuel Pumps

Someone recently posted various mail order prices for a Bosch GFP251 (0-580-364-002) fuel pump, some which were very competitive. I would suggest that anyone owning a tii and planning to keep it should pick up one of these pumps if any of the mail order houses still have it below $180.00. Current jobber price is $222.85, Bosch WD's pay approximately 28% below jobber [$160.45], and parts houses that are not direct pay 15-20% below jobber [$189.42-$178.28]. Mail order prices will rise to $200+ once old cost stock is depleted. SD

Steve D'Gerolamo, c/o The Parts Co-op, 201-262-0412

From: fbeck@acs.bu.edu (Fred Beck)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 95 12:43:08 PST
Subject: 2002tii Gas Tank Replacement

2002tii Gas Tank Replacement: I used a closed cell foam weatherstripping (made for exterior use) from the local hardware store when I replaced my '73 tii tank. The replacement tank I bought (original BMW, new) was slightly higher than the original, resulting in bowing of the wood cover panel when I put it back on. The original tank was flatter on top, the new tank slightly rounded on top and higher where the fuel pickup sits. I requested a different tank from my shop, and got one which was a slightly better fit. Now I can at least screw down the cover, still a bit of bulging.

--Fred
'73 2002tii

From: jonw@interport.net (jon wolfson)
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 11:28:42 -0500
Subject: Turbo gas tank

I replaced my regular '72 tii tank with a turbo tank. It was nothing to do the job, and was an unquestionable joy having a third more gas on board, not having to stop so often to fill up. It doesn't take up that much more space in your trunk, and there is an easy mod you can do to keep the trunk cover bolted down. Also think about getting a turbo gas guage, as the regular gauge will show empty when you still have about a third of a tank left.

Back to top

13.3.7: Carburetors, Manifolds, Air Cleaners

From: Dave Kellington
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 12:27:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Weber 32/36DGV Jets

>I've got an old, tired probably bone-stock '76 2002. When I got it,
>it had a pile of problems; now it's down to just a couple. The
>pressing issue at the moment is that the car is just falling flat
>around 3500-4000 RPM. It *IMMEDIATELY* gets better after 4000 RPM,
>and isn't always bad in the mid-3k range, but usually is. I'm
>betting it's mis-jetted, especially since all the ignition stuff is
>new and correct, and I just rebuilt the carb (and yes, I *do* know
>how to rebuild a carb, having done a couple zillion 40IDA3Cs).
>So, what's the hot setup, jet-wise?

I've been running the jetting below since it appeared in a letter in the September 1984 _Roundel_. The numbers are PRIMARY/SECONDARY.

CONFIGURATION      MAIN JETS    EMULSION TUBES    AIR JETS    IDLE JETS

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

   STOCK            140/135        F50/F6          165/160      55/60

  ROUNDEL           150/165        F8/F8           165/170      -----  

I'm using 60/60 idle jets. I haven't touched it in 12 years!

Dave
'73 2002

From: bmrfamly@nwlink.com (marilyn, dan, phillip patzer)
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 1996 17:08:34 -0800
Subject: Weber side-drafts

Please be careful with this installation. Get some experienced help. One of the best 2002 buys I've had was because of a Weber 40 DCOE "stack-fire" which damaged the main wiring bundle coming up the fender toward the fuse-box. The insurance company "totalled the car". I picked it up for peanuts and popped-in a wiring harness. Good luck, they're a lot of fun if done properly.

Dan Patzer
BMWACA Puget Sound Chapter

From: R2002tii@aol.com
Date: Sun, 18 Aug 1996 20:14:51 -0400
Subject: Dual Side Drafts

After setting up a set of Mikunis (similar to Webers) on a 2002, I say go for it! Don't listen to people who say its a pain to setup or run. Sidedrafts sound better and give more power, esp. with a cam that has high lift & duration.

Take It Easy
R2002tii@aol.com

From: donohue@azstarnet.com (Terry Donohue)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 1996 23:25:24 -0600
Subject: Sidedraft Manifold

>The experienced heads at the engine shop that is doing the work
>think that the stock ti manifold (about 2" long) is too short to
>extract best torque from this engine, and that a manifold 3" or 4"
>long would be better. Does anyone know of such a manifold? Who
>made/makes it, and where can we get it?
>I wonder if velocity stacks before the carbs would provide a similar
>effect?

All the intake manifolds on ti's (including aftermarket as well as the rare Alpina multiple butterfly manifold for the tii) are about the same length -- pretty short for minimal flow restriction. At full throttle, the length of the manifold is not important; it's the total length from the intake valve to the beginning of the induction system, or the end of the velocity stack. Weber makes a variety of velocity stacks in various lengths. Road racers tend to use the shortest possible; I use an intermediate length of about 45 mm (my torque peak is at about 5400 RPM); and long ones (70 mm or so) are available, if you can find the space to install them, and want to enhance your low end torque. There is a simple formula for calculating the resonant RPM for a given pipe length, but I don't have it at my fingertips.

Terry Donohue   donohue@azstarnet.com '71 2002Ti   '90 Audi 200TQ   '95 M3

From: brian.foster@ccmailsmtp.ast.com
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 96 15:47:01 PST
Subject: Sidedraft Intake Manifolds

>Does anyone know of such a manifold? Who made/makes it, and where
>can we get it?

Try: TWM -- 805.967.9478
Advanced Engineering Management -- 310.327.9336

With these two companies we put together the multiple butterfly intakes on my 2002tii using side draft intake manifolds. They should have something that works.

Brian Foster

From: Hood-Douda Mike Hood-Douda
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 20:12:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: 2000CS Solex 40PHH sidedrafts

>I think that my old dual Solex 40PHH sidedraft carburetors are
>drawing too much air in through their throttle butterfly shafts. I
>can perceptably wiggle the shafts in their bronze(?) bushings. They
>still work really well at full throttle but not so well at low to
>medium. They don't seem suitable for the old teflon-washers-on-
>the-shaft trick.

Here's some previous responses to my Solex 40PHH questions (for 1600ti).

>Regarding your Solex 40 PHH carbs: Solex 40 PHH carbs as you have
>noticed have bushings instead of bearings on the throttle shafts.
>You might want to measure the shafts and place a call to Schley
>Products Inc, Anaheim, California, (714) 693-7666. In their catalog
>they have a bushing repair kits for Solex carbs that include the
>required tools and new bushings. As you will have to remove the
>throttle plate screws to do this, you might want to make sure that
>you can find replacement screws first.

and

>You might also want to check to make sure that your throttle shafts
>aren't worn along with the bushings. There's a place in Dallas, TX
>that specializes in the Solex 44PHH carbs found on the MB 190SL.
>It's S&S Imports at 214-521-8875 or 214-826-5977.

I gave up and got a pair of Weber 40 DCOEs for our 1600ti.

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Sun, 15 Sep 1996 12:49:20 -0700
Subject: Sidedraft "sock" air filter

>Hi, I have a converted 2002ti with dual Webers with K&N filters.
>This setup works well except when the engine torques and the filters
>are smashed against the vacuum booster. I know at one point there
>were velocity stacks that were angled at 45 deg. upward. Does
>anyone know where I could find a set?

and Ware Adams answered:

>Alternatively, I've seen air filters that are black foam "socks"
>that fit over the carb throats. This would solve your problem.

I just noticed these sock air filters in the catalog of:

Top End Performance North Hollywood, California 818 764-6768 (Monday to Friday, 8 am to 5:30 pm)

From: Oleg Perelet
Date: Mon, 16 Sep 1996 02:35:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Sidedraft sock air filter

You can get 'sock' type of filters from many hi-po VW places for much less. BTW, you can get decent big DCOE filters from TWM.

Oleg.
E30M3&02's

From: berthold@mail.ifw.uni-hannover.de (olav berthold)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 04:35:39 -0400
Subject: Fuel economy with non-stock carbs

How is fuel economy influenced by running non-stock carbs on a 2002? What are preferred carb set-ups ? Any experience with double-carbs on a 2002A?

Here in Germany we are currently paying 1.7 Deutschmarks for a liter of leaded premium gas (which should be equal to about 4.3 US-$ per gal. (1 gal. = 3.785 l). So fuel economy is of some importance.

Here in Germany, talking about double carbs for 02s usually means the stock 2002 ti set-up. Not so much Webers are around. The Solex carbs have the reputation to be often crappy because of worn bearings. Fuel economy is said to drop from 21.5 mpg stock (my 02 uses definitely more gas with a single carb) to about 15 mpg (at least with Solexes)!

Olav
(with a single-carb '74 2002 targa and thinking about double-carbs...)

From: GREGM2002@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 22:48:28 -0400
Subject: Fuel Economy with Weber Carbs

A few digests back the question was asked about modified 02's and gas mileage. I been running 45 DCOE's on my 2002 for 18 years. Granted I've got them tuned just to my tastes and have a very good linkage and manifold setup, but they have NEVER stranded me and have gotten over 20 MPG under almost all conditions. I've gotten 29 MPG @ 70 MPH on trips and get 23-25 with a 50-50 mix of town and hiway. I get about 16 MPG at the track. The car was a daily driver until 3 years ago; it's got 390,000 miles on it. Yes, it's been rebuilt a couple of times, each time with new tricks I've learned. There is nothing better for a normally aspirated motor, IMHO. They can be a bit trick at first but are not the unreliable monsters some make of them.

The basic spec for my setup is: 45 DCOE / 36-mm venturis / F9 emulsion tubes with 125/195 main/air jetting / 50F8 idle jets / 40 pump jets / BMW manifolds bored to 45-mm / custom cable linkage / Allison (now Crane) electronic ignition / E12 head with minor porting, stcok chambers, 9.5 pistons and a Schrick 290 cam (a hardface copy of a Big Six cam) / Tii exhaust manifold / OD 5-speed with 4.11:1 limited slip.

It passes Washington State emissions testing without any trouble. At idle the results are 518 ppm HC (900 limit), 4.6% CO (6.0%); under load it drops WAY down to 045 ppm HC and 1.8% CO. The standards are the same until 1974 cars. Later cars have tougher standards, and the idle standard gets harder to meet.

Greg Mierz
GregM2002@aol.com
Roster Manager, BMWACA Puget Sound
Editor, MTecnic Zundfolge
1969 2002Ti (MPOWER) now with 390,000 miles

From: E21Bob@aol.com
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:18:41 -0400
Subject: Oil Vapor Collection Tank

>There was a posting a while back (or was it in _european car_?)
>about a neat way of adding a oil vapor collection tank in place of
>routing the valve cover hose back to the carbs. The article/posting
>also described adding a hose to the vent on the transmission for the
>same purpose.

When I converted my 320iS engine from fuel injection to sidedraft Webers, I attached a used Techron bottle with zip ties to one of the engine compartment fender well brackets (I think it was one that was used for part of the air flow meter). I then ran a hose from the valve cover vent to the bottle and clamped both ends. I check the bottle every few months and empty whatever collects. Make sure you drill some small holes near the top of the bottle for pressure relief. Also, if you sand and paint the bottle black, it looks better in the engine compartment.

I'd like to find a way to route the hose back into the carburetor intakes, but haven't figured out a way to do this with dual sidedraft carbs.

Bob Stommel

From: "Matt R. Brumwell"
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 11:50:58 -0500
Subject: Oil venting containers

>Mike asked about crankcase and tranny venting on a 2002.

I have DCOE's on my car also and had the same problem. I ran the breather hose over to the driver's side firewall where the emission relay junk use to be. On the firewall, using a carefully bent coat hanger as a bracket, I have a plastic Peter Pan Peanut Butter jar (18 oz I think). I found a rubber 90 deg elbow in the Help! display at the local Auto Value. One end is a male end that fits inside the breather hose. The other end is female and has a grove molded into it to it will hold itself in place when pushed through a hole in the plactic jar. On the inside of the jar I have a K & N stubby filter. This filter has a male end on it which connects to the elbow. Around the top of the jar I drilled a series of 1/8" holes to allow air to escape. I use a large wire tie to hold the jar in the bracket firmly. My theory is that the oil vapor will condense in the filter element and drip into the bottom of the jar. The 'clean' air goes through the holes in the top of the jar. After 600 miles there is a little oil in the bottom of the jar, and no oil on the outside lid of the jar. Seems to work for me.

The transmission venting article was in the August 1994 issue of _European Car_, just happened to be on the top of the stack on the work bench :). The gist of the article is this. If the vent gets plugged, the tranny does its breathing throught the seals. Not good since it can suck dirt in during cool down. The vent plug (according to EC) can be pulled out from the top with vise grips, making sure the area around it is clean. My tranny was out so this was easy. Once it's out, put it in a vise. If you are running Webers and still have your old intake manifold, you should be able to find a threaded nipple that will work. If not, go back to Auto Value's selection of brass nipples. Drill a hole in the vent plug and then tap threads in it to match the nipple. File the top of the plug flat so there is a good mating surface between the plug and the nipple. A copper washer is needed if you use the manifold nipple. Put teflon tape or other sealer on the threads and screw the two together.

I used blue brake hose and ran it up to its own catch bottle next to the crankcase bottle. In theory the same bottle can be used for both, but the bottle would have to be large enough for both to come in independently. I though about putting a T in the crankcase breather hose, but decided I didn't want motor oil in the tranny and vice versa. Anyway, the bottle arrangement is similiar, using a brass elbow and I think a small fuel filter inside the bottle. The jar itself is a small jar designed to hang on a peg board.

I also put a overflow bottle in for the radiator. I used a commercial $12 kit and installed it where the battery use to be.

matt brumwell
smoky mountain chapter 'cca
'75 2002
'87 535is
'88 M3

From: Filippo Morelli
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 14:39:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Oil venting containers

>crankcase and tranny venting on a 2002.

The best setup I've seen is a bicycle water bottle and water bottle bracket. They come in a variety of color/size/configurations, are cheap, and easy to install. One can run a 3/8-5/16 type hose from the breather boss on the valve cover to the water bottle nozzle. Plug a hold in the top of the bottle and bingo. Nice looking, cheap, easy to remove and clean setup.

My 2.3-l stroker with DCOE's spewed a good bit of oil, but the Stage II Korman 2.0-l with DCOE's did not - I ran a K&N breather on that valve cover breather boss with very little oil residue resulting on the head. YMMV

From: Hood-Douda Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 19:03:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Valve Cover Venting Solution

Thanks to all for their ideas and inputs. It is very apparent that there are a lot of creative individuals on this list. Here's what I ended up with:

I obtained a used VDO brand windshield washer solution bottle and mounting bracket from our one and only former BMW CCA Greater Oregon Chapter President (when we had a Greater Oregon Chapter) David Lumbra of 2002 Restorations in Eugene, Oregon. Thanks David!

I mounted the bracket on the driver's side fender wall near the firewall. The bottle was drilled and tapped to accept the appropriate sized brass nipple. The old valve cover hose was re-used to run between the valve cover and bottle. I loosely filled the bottle with cheesecloth to act as a filter/condensation media. Since the bottle came without the cap, I didn't have to drill additional holes for pressure relief. It works! Total cost: free.

Again thanks for all the ideas.

Mike

Back to top

13.3.8: Fuel Injection

From: "K.K. Wollenberg"
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 09:08:03 -0700
Subject: tii stalling problems

>The engine dies somewhere in the 4-5k RPM range, with the power
>available and RPM reached decreasing as the car warms up. The
>severity of the problem increases as the environmental temperature
>increases. When the car and outdoor temperature are cool in the
>morning, the car can be run to 5 or 6k smoothly with good power. As
>the day goes on the performance goes to hell, especially on hotter
>days. When the car is warm it is difficult to get off the line
>without revving to high rpm, or the engine will likely die. It is
>now getting very difficult to start, but was starting fine up until
>recently. The more weight in the car, the less speed I can achieve
>when it is acting up. I could only get to 50 mph pulling a small
>boat with another passenger. Under normal circumstances, the car
>could pull this load to excess of 65-70 mph with little effort.

There are several things to check:

1. Since the car was recently tuned, check your dwell/point gap. If they have slipped, it could cause the symptoms you describe 2. If this is not it, check to see if the fuel filter was installed upside down (the silver one by the battery) 3. Your fuel pump may be getting weak. Check your fuel delivery pressure. If you need one, I know Carl Nelson at CNPR has some on the shelf. Call him at 1-800-466-8184. 4. Check the fine mesh screen at the bottom of the tube which contains the fuel pickup. This can get blocked by sediment in your tank and cause problems.

Keith Wollenberg
'72 tii Touring

From: BMW@comet.net (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 1996 15:01:20 -0500
Subject: tii rough running

>I've been having trouble with my tii for a while now. Its been
>runing really rough, and the idle drifts up when the engine is cold.
>I replaced the cap and rotor, plugs and wires and this had no
>effect, but I was going to replace them anyway. I sprayed water
>around the plastic manifold tubes on someone's suggestion to test
>for air leaks, but there was no idle change. I also checked the
>linkage, and that was not the source of the idle problem. Could the
>rough running be from poor timing, or are these two problems
>related, and/or (please no) is it something wrong with my
>Kugelfischer?

What a can of worms. Have you checked timing? Have you checked valve clearances? Have you checked condensor and points? You say you checked the linkage, but what did you check? Adjusting linkages causes lots of problems with tii's. If the car was running fine before someone fiddled w/ the linkages, that might be where to look. Setting them is easy, as all you are doing is adjusting them to a predetermined length on a jig and synchronizing the whole deal. Adjusting idle with the two set screws causes the majority of problems, as you really need to take CO and HC readings while working. Often the throttle housing or shaft bushing/bearings are worn causing the butterfly not to close all the way or causing an air leak. Pump pressure is another thing to check as well as the three (that's right, 3) different filters and screens along the fuel path after the pickup. Must be a FAQ on this, I would think; the manual is fairly clear and there was also a training video and booklet published by BMW that at one time was available reprinted. I think Metric Mechanic might have had their own version.

Phil Marx (*=00=*) BMWCCA #6021
Bavarian Motor Warehouse, Inc.
(804) 293-8269
fax (804) 293-0817
416 W. Main St.
Charlottesville, VA. 22903
Check out our Web page: http://www.comet.chv.va.us/bav/
See the M635CSi and a few other lovely 2 & 4 wheel BMWs

From: ben thongsai
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 12:15:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: 2002tii Hesitation

>I just bought a beautiful '73 tii a week ago, and I'm already having
>problems. The car is hesitating under acceleration in a big way.
>Yesterday it became pretty much undriveable. So, I took it in to
>the shop today (my repair manual hasn't come yet) and they seem to
>just be befuddled. Maybe someone here can help. The engine hasn't
>been rebuilt, and I don't have repair records, so many expensive
>tests have been run. First, the fuel pressure was checked, and it
>came out on the low end of OK. Then, compression, which also came
>out fine. Vacuum is also all right. Timing is fine as well. The
>only things that they have figured out is that the engine is running
>very rich, and the #2 sparkplug was fouled with oil.

>Now they want to run some kind of injector cleaner through the
>injection system, which they will be happy to charge me $100. It
>sounds to me like they're just grasping, and I'd rather not spend a
>c-note on someone else's desperation. Anyone have clues? The
>hesitation is very marked, and only occurs under acceleration.
>That's about it for characteristics. It happens when the engine's
>hot or cold, going fast or slow.

This sounds like you have a severe mixture problem. Since it's doing it both hot and cold, I suspect that the linkage that goes to the injection pump from the throttle pivot rod either popped off, or broke off the plastic end link. Look between the injection pump and the engine, and check to see if the linkage is still in one piece and operational.

If that's okay, check the rest of the linkage. The rod that goes up to the throttle housing is 2 pieces -- check that they're tightly clamped together.

>Now they want to run some kind of injector cleaner through the
>injection system, for which they will be happy to charge me $100.
>It sounds to me like they're just grasping, and I'd rather not spend a
>c-note on someone else's desperation.

Injector cleaner shouldn't make any difference on a tii. With injection pressures in the 400-500 psi range, there isn't much of an opportunity for crud to deposit in the injection system. Sounds like the shop doesn't have any tii experience.

>Anyone have clues? The hesitation is very marked, and only occurs
>under acceleration. That's about it for characteristics. It
>happens when the engine's hot or cold, going fast or slow.

Does it run smoothly at a constant speed? Are they sure it's running rich? If it runs okay at a constant speed, and is not running really rich, the filter and screens may be plugging up. Check to see that the electric fuel pump is pumping sufficient volume.

From: Ware Adams
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 96 00:42:29 -0500
Subject: Re: 2002tii question

>Ok- I just bought a beautiful '73 tii a week ago, and I'm already
>having problems. The car is hesitating under acceleration in a big
>way. Yesterday it became pretty much undriveable. So, I took it in
>to the shop

My '74 behaved this way when I first bought it. Before you get into any actual repair work make sure you hit all the key tii tune up bits (well covered in a _European Car_ issue of a couple of years ago):

1) Clean all 4 fuel filters
2) Change points, plugs, condensor, set timing
3) Tune the injection using a factory manual or have someone who knows what they are doing do it (e.g. set idle speed and mixture the proper way). It is absolutely vital to set these things up correctly -- you need the proper tools, and the injection linkage must be in good shape (call Maximillian at 800-950-2002 if you need new parts), and the adjustments must all be spot on. The best source for all of this is the BMW NA Kugelfischer manual that you can get from the tii registry which is listed on the back of the Roundel.

If you don't do all of this, it isn't worth the effort to do anything else. Many and/or most tii problems can be solved by doing the above. I'm convinced I saved a $1,000 off the price of my '74 because the original owner hadn't done this and thought the car would never run right.

Good luck,
Ware
'72 & '74 2002tii

From: BMW@comet.net (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:37:47 -0400
Subject: Injection Pump Drive Belt Replacement

>When installing a new fuel injection pump toothed drive belt, should
>the cogs of the Kugelfischer drive pulley be greased, or should the
>belt be installed dry? If it needs to be greased, what type is
>recommended?

Dry!

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 1996 13:48:53 -0700
Subject: tii throttle linkage parts

>Does anyone have any good sources for throttle linkage parts for
>my 74 tii?

Try: Maximillian Importing Co.


     Max Conover


     606 Maiden Choice Lane


     Baltimore, MD  21228  USA


     800 950-2002


     410 744-2697

Many individual parts are available, and a complete set is about US$ 230 as I recall.

From: BMW@comet.net (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 1996 17:37:47 -0400
Subject: tii injection history

>Does anyone know when the Kugelfischer pump was first used on a BMW?
>The reason I ask is that almost all of my engine parts are stamped
>"72" (for the 1973 model year build), but the fuel injection belt
>dust covers are both stamped "69" (for 1969). I thought that the
>euro tii started in the 1971 model year, and the US-spec tii's were
>built for the 1972-74 model year. Was there something like a 1970
>2000tii, or was the factory just getting an early start on
>production of parts for building the '71 tii in 1970? (Or maybe I
>have a really rare prototype dust cover.

The first 2000tii's were produced in 12/69, so it's possible there's a large supply of those plastic covers made in advance that were still being used for the limited production 2002tii's even by '72. Haven't checked the date on mine though ... Nope, just ran back to the garage and checked on the '72 which was stolen from me about 14 years ago and is in a state of "repose". It's upper cover is date stamped "69", and I know it's the original piece. That should be a good enough answer.

Phil Marx BMWCCA #6021

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13.3.9: Lubrication

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 10:47:39 -0700
Subject: Oil Pressure

>I ... put an oil pressure gauge on my "new" motor. When the car
>is cold, I have a ton of oil pressure (the slightest touch on the
>gas sends the gauge flying), about 20-30 psi at idle, but when
>the car warms up, I get no more than 20 psi at idle (sometimes
>the idiot light comes on), and the maximum is about 30 psi (even
>at 7000 rpm!). Is this normal? Brand new oil pump, Mann oil
>filter, using 20w-50 oil ... ['73 2002tii].

The BMW Repair Manual says the oil pressure idiot light switch should close when the pressure drops below:

0.2 - 0.5 bar  (2.8 - 7.1 psi).



The oil pump pressure specs are:



      Idle:   0.8 - 1.2 bar  (11.4 - 17.1 psi)

              0.5 - 1.5 bar  ( 7.1 - 21.4 psi) "Gear type oil pump"

  4000 RPM:  approx 4.0 bar  (     57 psi    )

Something is not normal. You should consider the possibility that your gauge is inaccurate. Your oil pressure switch could also be faulty, although it's common for the light to flicker at _low_ idle when the engine is hot. Can you try a different pressure gauge? If your present gauge is accurate, then you do have a problem.

From: R2002tii@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Sep 1996 23:18:28 -0400
Subject: Low Oil Pressure Solved

I found the problem -- it was the banjo bolt. [See Section 13.3.3.]

Dan Chapman (R2002tii@aol.com)

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13.3.10: Cooling

From: thiroy@ix.netcom.com (Thi VanAusdal)
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 20:28:55 -0700
Subject: Overheating

>Should I have the radiator checked first, then change the pump? At
>the same time, since the radiator will be out of the car, should I
>do some other stuff up front? Timing chain? Gaskets? Tighten stuff
>up? Are there any things I should be wary of while I'm doing this?
>Could I consider putting a used 320i water pump on?

Radiators in my experience do not fail catastrophically except by physical contusion (read: bird, rock, small appliances enter the radiator to cause a leak). Loss of cooling capacity is a gradual thing, like the spare tire I have around my stomach. (It's a Dunlop, as in my guts Dunlop'd over my belt buckle. :P )

Water pump failure is more likely here (you *do* have a leak you said). If the drip/leak is from the front of the motor somewhere, it is a 90% likelihood that's your pump. Hose failures are more of the rupture-spraysteameverywhere variety.

A 320i water pump would require the use of a 320i pulley for the pump, as its nose sticks out about one inch more to clear the fan past the crank pulley on 320i's. Which, on a 2002, would put the pump in the radiator core. That is a Bad Thing. :(

Thi VanAusdal
'77 320i
'87 325i (project)
'87 325is (dad's)

From: sphan@sdcc5.ucsd.edu (Stanley Phan)
Date: Sun, 19 Mar 1995 10:29:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 2002 Radiator Upgrade

This month's _Roundel_ (the 02 column) has an article on a 2002 radiator upgrade. The article lists the part number for a 3-row core replacement.

I've replaced the stock radiator on my 02 with the 320i aluminum unit. It's hard to say whether there is any improvement in cooling. Also a big draw back is that aluminum fins on the radiator are **very** soft and therefore get damaged very easily. This does cause problems everytime I work around the engine...I always have to be cautious of those fins.

If I were to replace my radiator again, I would definitely go with a better recore unit. This route has several advantages. Cheaper, keeps the car stock looking, and makes R/R of the radiator (i.e. water pump replacements) ***much*** easier.

-Stanley Phan
'72 2002

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13.4: Suspension & Steering

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13.4.1: Steering failure

From: "Yurko Joseph"
Date: 14 Jun 1995 12:05:26 U

I recently had the misfortune of having the steering fail on my '76 2002A. Fortunately this happened when I was moving very slowly while maneuvering into a tight parking spot which required a large amount of force to turn the steering wheel. I suspect that this failure could also have occurred during a drivers school or autocross where the stresses on the steering components are higher than would be seen during normal driving.

Upon inspecting the car, I discovered that the rubber coupling which connects the steering gear box to the steering column had failed. This failure rendered the steering wheel completely useless! I strongly recommend that all 2002 owners (and others) inspect their cars and replace the coupling if there is ANY sign of deterioration. The parts cost approximately $20 and are not difficult to replace. The microfiche shows two parts for the coupling: one is a rubber disk with four mounting holes, and the other is a small, weak spring whose function is not obvious (does anybody know what the spring does ?) My car had both parts.

To install the new parts:
1. Do not remove any parts from the steering column in the car interior.
2. Do not loosten or remove the steering box.
3. Remove the four nuts securing the coupling.
4. Loosten the nut securing the splined flange to the steering column and slide the flange towards the steering wheel. Note the orientation of the flange to the shaft so you can reorient the flange properly during reassembly.
5. Remove the old rubber coupling and spring.
6. Install the new parts and reverse the disassembly procedure, being sure to orient the flange properly to the steering column shaft.
7. Check to make sure you tightened everything you loosened.
8. You are done.

From: Oleg Perelet
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 1996 22:34:23 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Suspension Bushings

To disconnect tie rod ends use screw type pusher; don't knock them with a hammer.

About suspension bushings: it is best to replace them all. The complete set of bushings, tie rod assemblies, control arms, and balljoints is less than US$200. All can be replaced with suspension in car, but it's much simpler to take subframe out and do all work on the floor (also good chance to sandblast/paint subframe and replace idler arm bushings, blue ones, etc).

Oleg E30M3 & 02s

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13.4.2: Anti-roll (sway) Bars

From: ben thongsai
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:03:21 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: '02/tii springs

>I have spare '74 tii springs and swaybars and wondered if they're
>any bigger/stiffer than the stock pieces on my '75.

The sway bars are the same, at I think 15 mm front and 16 mm rear. Not very useful with anything larger than the stock 165-13 tires.

Ben

From: "Rick Kjeldsen"
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 1996 12:02:23 -0400
Subject: Sway bar noise

>Anyone have any suggestions for getting rid of aftermarket sway bar
>noise? It's not a squeeking noise, it's a clunk clunk over
>small bumps - >annoying.

I assume your bars came with Heim (sp?) joints (that is, ball and socket assemblies) to replace the sway bar end links, and probably urethane center bushings. I have that setup on my car -- it's very common. What I've found is that the noise comes from the ball joints. When the suspension load changes from one wheel being compressed to the other being compressd, the load on the bar reverses, so the direction of stress on the ball joints changes from a push to a pull (or vice versa), so the small amount of play between the ball and socket causes a click. The hard center bushings then transmit this click very effectively to the body.

Greasing the ball joint helps for a (short) time, as it takes up the space. Greasing the urethane bushings helps for a (shorter) time, because it keeps the sound from being transmitted as well.

You can also replace the urethane bushings with rubber at some minor performance loss. Dinan does this.

I think it may help to replace the ball joints with higher quality ones that have a teflon(?) liner between the ball and socket.

rick
'87 325es - click, click, click...

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 13:41:47 -0700
Subject: ST 22/19 bars on tii

I said earlier:
>... the front center section of a Suspension Techniques 22-mm
>front antiroll bar hits other parts on a '72 tii ... Should
>the front section be higher or lower than the front bushings?

Thanks to Fred Beck, German Auto Salvage, Mike Hood-Douda, Gerry O'Conner, and Oleg Perelet who all said 1) the front section of the bar should be LOWER than the bushings; 2) it is common for the bar to rub on the front apron; and 3) the cure, if needed, is to bend the front apron a bit forward.

The help here on the bmw-digest is really great. The ST installation instructions are incomplete and poorly written, and the ST tech support person didn't have any answers.

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13.4.3: Shock Absorbers

From: Oleg Perelet
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 1996 17:18:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: <02> shock absorbers

KYB IMHO are bad; they are hard, rust fast, etc. If Bilsteins are too pricy, get Boge -- nice and affordable.

Oleg.
E30M3&02's

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13.4.4: Front Struts

From: FABeck@lbl.gov (Fred Beck)
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 95 12:23:30 PDT
Subject: Re: 2002 strut spacers or not?

>What's the general feeling on the use of the aluminium strut
>spacers? I've heard both that preformance was increased and
>decreased when these were removed. The owner before me removed them
>and put them up top where the strut bearing nuts hold the bearing to
>the car. Any reason for this?

The strut spacers were added to US-spec 2002's so that the front bumper would meet the US bumper-height criteria. Removing them returns the height to Euro-spec. Regarding performance, I have run my car both with and without them, and have not noticed much difference either way (I was not using my car on the track at the time, though). The reason I had them in is that I had 320i wheels with the wrong offset, so they would rub without the spacers in. When removed, the spacers are generally put on top due to the length of the three strut mounting studs, so that you dont have to screw the nut down 1" on the stud before it is tight. This problem can be alleviated by going to 320i strut bearings/bushings (which are identical to the 2002 except for the stud length), or by removing the longer 2002 studs and pressing in the shorter 320i studs.

A while back Ben Thongsai told me that "lowering the front of a 2002 will lower the roll center faster than the center of gravity. Which means that all else being equal, a lowered car will roll more than one that is not." I think the key here is that if your sway bars/springs do the job of controlling body roll, then lowering the center of gravity of the car will improve its handling. I am interested to hear if others on the list have comments about the effects of the lowering/roll center/center of gravity interplay.

--Fred '73 2002tii

From: "Steve D'Gerolamo"
Date: Wed, 03 Jul 1996 09:17:44 -0400
Subject: Strut Bearing Assemblies -- 2002 & 320i

There are different strut bearing assemblies for 2002 (31-33-1-112-644) and 320i (31-33-1-110-195), although the two are basically interchangeable. Price wise, the 320i unit is cheaper at $74.00 list vs $122.00 list for the 2002 unit (I think the 2002 piece came down with the June price tape...don't know about he July tape yet). The subtle differences between the 2 parts is the length of the studs (the 2002 assemblies had the longer studs to accomodate the headlight height aluminum spacers that have surely been removed by now). It also appears that the grey dust cap for the 2002 (31-33-1-110-540) will not fit on the 320i assembly.

Regardless of which assembly you use, try to purchase one of the new style units with the "sealed bearing". These work a little smoother, and you will avoid the problem of dirt getting into the grease of the open bearing assembly. SD

Steve D'Gerolamo, c/o The Parts Co-op, 201-262-0412

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13.4.5: Springs

From: ben thongsai
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 12:03:21 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: '02/tii springs

>I have spare '74 tii springs and swaybars and wondered if they're
>any bigger/stiffer than the stock pieces on my '75.

As far as springs go, they are technically the same. However, BMW had three levels of spring rates for the 2002, all with the same part no. (I guess it was to allow for production tolerances or something). The rate is denoted by the paint stripe on the side of the spring. Green is stiffest, white is medium, and red is softest, if I remember correctly. Typically, the tiis will come with the green stripe springs, and the standard '02s with white or red, but that isn't certain.

Basically, the stock springs are the same between the standard '02 and tii, although the tii springs can sometimes be a shade stiffer (something on the order of 30 or so lbs/in). Worth swapping? Probably not, unless your old ones are sagging.

Ben

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13.4.6: Steering Wheel

From: BMW@comet.net (Bavarian Motor Warehouse)
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:16:31 -0400
Subject: 320i steering wheel size

>Can someone tell me what the size of a 320i steering wheel is?

>>I measured this just the other day. The outside diameter is
>>15 +/- 0.2 inch.

Stock 2002 is ~16" (O.D.), turbo uses ~15", and my 2.3 2002 uses 13.75" with the quick ratio steering box.

-Phil Marx BMWCCA #6024

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Fri, 9 Aug 1996 09:10:53 -0700
Subject: 320is Steering Wheel on <02>

>I recently bought a 320is steerings wheel to put on my 74 2002.
>Everything seems to match except the horn connection. Does someone
>have some hints or a solution based on past experience with this
>setup?

The 2002 has the spring-loaded carbon brush on the wheel and the circular brass contact ring on the column. The 320i setup is the opposite. You can solve this by removing the 2002 contact ring and its plastic holder from the steering column. Then install a long carbon brush assembly (from 320i as I recall) on the frame which holds the turn signal and wiper switches. It will fit at bottom center after you do some filing there. Also, it is too short, so you will need to install it with a pair of spacers about 0.25 inches long between it and the frame, so that its base is farther away from the floor (toward the steering wheel). The assembly is about 1.6 inches long overall, of which the brush is about 0.5 inch. The filing required is a semicircular notch in the lower housing at the center of the bottom of the original horn ring cutout.

The hub of the E30 steering wheel is very different from the 2002 and E21 320i hubs and does not have a chance of fitting a 2002.

From: William Boyd
Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 12:23:54 -0700
Subject: 320i steering wheel in a 2002

Troy D. Brewster" wrote:

>...I have heard there is a problem getting the horn to work.
>What is the work-around for this problem?

I've fitted a 320i steering wheel in my '75 2002a last year. Though I haven't measured it, seems to be the same configuration as my '74 tii steering wheel but with a fixed as opposed to removable center pad. The horn switch ring is reversed from the 2002 and so a contact to the ring on the 2002 steering column must be made.

For lack of a spare 2002 wheel at the time, I kludged it Q&D with a 1" brass paper fastener (FWIW: Bildemup (tm)#4 =97 the old non-clip type with a tack-like head with a flat cotter pin-like point). The head is 1/2 wedged under the back part of the 320i steering wheels contact ring. [Loosen one of the phillips screws holding down the ring a bit, wedge the fastener head under the ring and then tighten down so the sides of the pointed part of the fastener will splay out along the arc of the ring in both directions].

The paper fastener point was bent with a curve at it's tips to contact the 2002 steering column ring with a fairly flat surface. '02a's horn works fine after a little adjustment in bending the tabs to match the column ring. A slightly scratchy noise when turning the wheel might be lessened or eliminated by curling up the long edges on the sides of the fastener a bit and adding a dab of lubricant of some type.

Bill Boyd '02's and 3.0CS etc.

From: William Boyd
Date: Sat, 14 Sep 1996 01:32:59 -0700
Subject: E21 Steering wheel to 2002

In a previous post suggesting a horn ring kludge to make a 320i steering wheel work in a 2002, I forgot mention of a couple of washers used as part of the steering wheel adaptation:

Because of the length of the integral plastic tab that cancels the signals on the 320i wheel, a plastic bushing (approx 1/4" thick), salvaged in this case from the base of a spare 2002 manual trans. shifter (the one under the shifter ball if I recall) was slipped over the wide part of the steering shaft. The edges of the turn signal cancelling tab on the 320i steering wheel were bevelled slightly with a file.

Additionally, two metal washers (approx. 3/16" in thickness total) were fitted over the steering shaft splines; followed by the 320i wheel into the splines; the 2002s thin spring washer over the threads, and a 22-mm self locking nut. Test for tightness etc. Finally, snap in the roundel.

(The additional 3/16" was required on my '75 2002a at least so that the 320i wheel wouldn't rub and make noise on the bottom front edge of the plastic pad sitting at the top of the 2002 steering column. The upper pad covering the column had curled slightly at the bottom where it joined the lower part that holds the horn ring, making a scratching sound against the hub when turning the wheel.)

Bill Boyd '02s and a CS etc.

Date: Wed, 11 Sep 1996 21:13:11 -0700
From: "Victor L. and Lisbeth Westh-Trucco"
Subject: 320is Steering Wheel on <02>

You will hear lots of approaches, but I found the best way to do this is to take the spring loaded brush off the 2002 steering wheel, take the ring off the 320i wheel, and drill out one of the holes that encircle the center of 320i wheel to fit the 2002 brush into like the 2002 wheel setup. The existing guide holes in the 320i wheel will line up well with your contact ring. I attempted the method of bending the contact ring to make contact with the 2002 contact ring and that didn't work out too well. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Victor

From: "crestest@cadvision.com"
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 1996 09:13:31 -0600
Subject: E21 steering wheel on 2002

>mounting an e-30 steering wheel onto a 72 2002 ...
>about brush and ring situation....

But, there is one more thing. Signal stalk (lever) is on the left side on E21 and square tailed 2002s. It is, however, on the right side on the round tailed 2002, presenting another necessary modification since the E21 wheel has signal canceller built into it unlike the metal ring on 2002.

Miro STROMAR, Calgary, Alberta CANADA
BMW CCA 132434

============================

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---------------------------
From: fbeck@acs.bu.edu
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 1996 03:13:33 -0400
Subject: 2002 Brake Problems

>I have a '76 2002 in need of brake repairs. Specifically, I've been
>told that my brake pads and shims need to be replaced; front left
>brake caliper is "seized up" and needs to be replaced; both rear
>wheel brakes are also seized up; and rear brake shoes and wheel
>cylinders need to be replaced.

To keep the brake system in good order is is best to replace the brake fluid every year. If the fluid is not changed, moisture can build up in it and cause some rust in the brake cylinders, which can lead to problems. Another suggestion is to replace the flexible part of the brake lines; they are likely to be original and get both soft and filled with crud after 20 years or so. If you're into performance, go with stainless/kevlar lines; if not, stock is fine.

It seems strange to me that three out of four wheel cylinders are "seized up" at the same time. What happens when you hit the brakes? In any event, unless the front caliper is really in bad shape, rebuilding that caliper is way cheaper than buying a new one, and will work just as well. By the way, you can get a new front caliper through a mail-order outfit for much less than you were quoted (For example $169.95 from Bavarian Autosport, 1-800-535-2002. Rear wheel cylinders are $26.95). If you're not a member, join the BMWCCA. At the very least this gets you 20-25% of dealer prices for parts.

--Fred Beck
'73 2002tii (240k miles, finally rebuilding the engine!)
Boston, MA

From: GREGM2002@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 23:20:30 -0400
Subject: Uneven Braking

David Mckenzie writes about his 2002 brakes. It's been my experience that the uneven pull of the brakes is usually the rear brake adjustment. In the wisdom of non-self adjusting rear drums, the slack that happens when the adjustment goes off is the first thing that moves upon pushing on the brakes. A simple test is pump the brake lightly and then see if it pulls straight; if so, it's the rear adjustment. Air in the brake system should make for a spongy pedal and will pump up. But if you're concerned, go ahead and flush and bleed the system. A seized caliper piston may cause a pull, but it should pull without the brakes being applied, and one side should be hotter than the other from the increased drag.

Good luck and remember that brakes are one thing not to have be only
working so-so.

Greg Mierz
GregM2002@aol.com
Roster Manager, BMWACA Puget Sound
Editor, MTecnic Zundfolge
1969 2002Ti (MPOWER) now with 390,000 miles

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13.6: HVAC

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13.6.1: Heater Box/Cable Repair

---------------------------
From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 17:33:39 -0700
Subject: lt;02> Heater Control Cables

>A couple of nights ago, the cable to the heater valve
>snapped off inside the housing near the heater valve ...
>Replacing the 23 year old valve appears to be straight forward,
>but the cable looks to be a bear. Do I have to pull the heater
>box to do this? ... the replacement cable is actually a two-
>piece affair. One end goes to the heater box and the other
>connections goes somewhere. (inside the box?)

You are on the right path. You must disassemble the console and extract the heater box with the control cables and levers attached. To free the lever assembly, pull the small knobs straight off, pull the bezel off in the same direction, then remove the two screws which were hidden by the bezel. Detach the two coolant hoses, the blower wiring harness, etc. Be prepared with many towels to catch the coolant which drains out when you move the heater box. Finally, remove the two (four?) nuts which hold the heater box in the car, and take the heater box to your workbench. (I was able to move my A/C unit out of the way without opening the Freon plumbing.)

Open the heater box by drilling out the near-infinite number of rivets in the flange. (Note which side of the flange the rivet heads are on.) With the heater box now open you can see and understand the two control cables. Install the new cables and adjust them carefully so you get the full range of motion of the water valve and air flap. This is an excellent time to check the operation of the fan motor.

Now go to the hardware store and buy a new set of aluminum pop rivets and backing washers. I *think* the size is 5/32 inch diameter and 1/4 inch length. Also get enough closed-cell foam tape to seal the heater box in the body opening. The tape is thin and about 3/8 inch wide.

Check the control cable adjustment again. Then reassemble the heater box with the pop rivets and washers, being careful to install them from the correct side. Clean off the old sealing tape and install the new. Put the heater box and control back in the car, and reconnect enough things that you can test the heater. Then put everything else back together. If you have the newer, illuminated bezels, check the bulbs before replacing the bezels.

This glib description ignores many of the annoying details of the job. It is manageable, but give yourself most of a day to do it.

Gunnar Elmgren adds:

It is also an excellent time to replace the 2-inch long hose between the heater valve and the heater core, and to have your heater core flushed, externally cleaned, and checked out for leaks/corrosion; talk to your nearest radiator shop.

Gunnar Elmgren
Stockholm, Sweden

Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 19:40:30 -0800
From: "marilyn, dan, phillip patzer"
Subject: heater cable

Some 2002 owners have installed 81 type 320i external heater valves using manual choke cables mounted where you choose as an alternative to the 40 hours you'll spend in the dash removing everthing if your cable is actually broken.

Dan Patzer

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13.6.2: Air Conditioning

From: Ware Adams
Date: Sat, 2 Dec 1995 18:37:38 -0500
Subject: A/C in 2002

> Was A/C an option in any 2002 models?

It was a dealer installed option. Generally the best dealer versions were Behr -- these were both cooler and had a nicer console. Frigiking was worse in both respects. Many cars now have replacement compressors, and rotary ones are to be sought out here. I think Clardy compressors are quite good.

> I'm thinking of buying one sometime soon and would like a car with A/C.

Realize that most a/c 2002s don't cool that well, and it really taxes the car's radiator in the summer. You will almost certainly want a triple core radiator and 78-degree thermostat.

For all of this you may want to check out the '02 web page: http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~efrank/2002.html

Ware
'72 & '74 2002tii's

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13.7: Electrical

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13.7.1: Battery

From: GREGM2002@aol.com
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 16:30:13 -0400
Subject: trunk mounted battery

>how to mount a battery in the trunk?

Try to find bulk OO/ or OOO welding cable for the positive cable; it's much more bendable and of bigger size to compensate for the longer run of wire. Run the positive cable inside the car with grommets whenever the wire goes thru metal (a short here could fry the car). On my car I ran it along the driver side sill under the carpet, over the pedal assembly, and out thru the firewall just above the starter. Ground the battery in the trunk; I used the unused shoulder strap fitting on the underside of the package tray, but any real clean solid spot will work. BE SURE the ground straps between motor and frame are in good shape under the hood. It would be wise to check all the grounds under the hood now. A good marine case will hold the battery, but have a good way to secure the case in the trunk (angle iron, straps, or whatever but make sure it will not move around). It's a good idea to have it so that you can slide it out a little for maintenance, so leave some extra length to the cables. A welding shop will also have the right fitting for the cable ends, then just use wing nut battery posts to hook up the cables.

Greg Mierz, GregM2002@aol.com
Roster Manager, BMWACA Puget Sound
Editor, MTecnic Zundfolge
1969 2002Ti (MPOWER)

From: Ian Dickerson
Date: Sat, 17 Aug 1996 17:54:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Trunk mounted battery

I used a combination rear shock tower strut brace/battery pan from Import Engineering to mount the battery in the trunk of my '76 '02. The brace looks like an inverted triangle, with the battery frame on the bottom. This keeps the battery ahead of a line drawn between the two shock towers, and leaves most of your trunk left for storage. This is a neat solution to the battery dilemma. I use an Interstate Group 42 battery, and haven't put it in a box or anything. I used #2 gauge wire (got it at a welding shop), and ran the wire through grommets in the backseat bulkhead, and then inside the cabin, under the driver's seat and through a pre-existing hole in the firewall to the starter.

Ian
'76 M2002
'88 535is

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13.7.2: Charging System

From: bmrfamly@nwlink.com (Dan, Marilyn, Anathea, Phillip)
Date: Sat, 18 Nov 1995 06:26:43 -0800
Subject: alternator bushings

In response to many requests for better mounting bushings for the 2002 alternator housing, I suggest Bosch part # 1-120-323-001 @ $8-10, which is/could be BMW # 12-31-1-268-447 @ $12-15. These bushings commonly outlast the life of the rest of the alternator.

Now has anyone tried the "geared" type belt tensioning bracket used on newer Bimmers for their 2002?

Dan Patzer
67 1800
72 2002 Tii touring

From: Stuart Raike
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 07:47:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 2002 alternator bushings

>Recently a mechanic pointed out that the alternator on my '74 2002
>sits a little askew. He suspected that the rubber washers had not
>been correctly installed. Can anyone out there explain where the
>various washers go?

There are two rubber bushings on the top alternator mount, and there are two on the bottom mount. They are shaped like a top hat. You need to remove the alternator and then remove an external snap ring that holds the bushings in place. With the snap ring removed, you can drive out the metal sleeve that the mounting bolt goes through and then remove the bushings. The bushings tend to get soft and squish after some time, and then the alternator goes out of alignment. I would recommend replacing the standard rubber bushings with urethane bushings as they live much longer. Bavarian Autosport carries the urethane. You need 2 of the large ones and 2 of the small ones. They cost about $7 each.

Stu Raike
'92 325i
'82 320i

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 11:00:29 -0700
Subject: Alternator Output

>I recently purchased a newly remanufactured alternator for my 02.
>I was surprised to find out that it is only a 35 ampere alternator.
>Ithought that the stock U.S. version alternator was 55 amperes?

Most '02s have 45-ampere alternators. Some unspecified cars have an "earlier" 35-ampere alternator.

From: Hood-Douda
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:50:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Alternator upgrade options

I had the original 35-A alternator in our '69 1600ti rebuilt to put out 70 A. Don't know the specifics, but it's worked fine for 1.5 years and was a reasonable alternative . Check with your local independent BMW mechanic or electrical motor repair shop.

Mike Hood-Douda
raindance@proaxis.com

From: John Temple
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 17:02:00 PDT
Subject: Alternator Upgrade

In the last issue of _Headlights_, Anthony Velleco described replacing his alternator with a used alternator from a 530i (because it kept him in the Bosch line). The mounting points are the same, the wiring harness plugs right in, and it has a solid bushing which won't wear out. It takes your stock 2002 (pre-'74) from 35 amps to 55 amps, and it takes the later '02s from 45 amps to 55 amps.

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 09:30:38 -0700
Subject: Alternator Upgrade

>I was wondering if anybody has done a conversion to their 02
>wherein they put a bigger alternator (70 amperes or more).

Top-End Performance in North Hollywood, California sells for US$ 179 a 65-amp alternator upgrade for 2002s. Phone 818 764-6768 or see www.racetep.com.

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13.7.3: Headlights

From: Ware Adams
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 96 15:18:50 -0500
Subject: 1600 Headlights

>Is there a way to upgrade the headlights to something newer and brighter ?

Hella H4s work well. You should probably use a relay, though.

Ware
'72 & '74 2002tii

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13.7.4: Turn Signals

From: Hood-Douda Mike Hood-Douda
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Dash turn signal light

Leif Anders said:

>I am perplexed by a problem with my turn signal enunciator on the
>instrument cluster. I have replaced the bulb and renewed the
>relay, and yet the turn signal reminder lamp in the cluster will
>flash only once, twice, or maybe five times then quit. Meanwhile,
>the turn signals continue to flash as they should.

I too suffered (er, the 1600ti did) from this malady. The cure? Replacing the fuse for the turn signal. Seems that the exposed aluminum fuse material oxidizes slowly over time, which somehow upsets the cosmic balance of the RC circuit that the turn signal bulb, relay, and indicator lamp comprise. I replace my fuses about twice a year as preventative maintenance.

[Leif's solution below]

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu
Date: Wed Aug 14 08:58:00 1996
Subject: Dash turn signal light

[Response to Leif Anders T.S. problem described above]

This is the standard response of a turn signal flasher (relay) when one of the bulbs is out. My theory is that your outside turn signal bulbs are not drawing enough current. This could be because the wrong bulbs are installed (dim #93 vs. bright #1141 or #1156) or because there is a loose connection somewhere. It is possible, but not likely, that the turn signal switch is bad; I'd leave that expensive cure for last.

I suggest doing some troubleshooting with a DVM. See if you get a strong 12 volts at the input of the turn signal flasher. Check at the turn signal bulbs also. Check that you have the correct bulbs. Measure the turn signal current (at the fuse maybe) and calculate the difference between ON and OFF; it should be in the range of 3.0 and 4.2 amps. If it's less, my theory is confirmed. For #93 bulbs expect about 2.0 amps.

A simple and indirect test is to temporarily tie another bulb in parallel with an existing one (easy at the rear inside the trunk). If this makes the indicator flash regularly, it confirms the theory.

From: Leif Anders
Subject: Dash Turn Signal Light Corrected
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 20:33:09 -0700

I discovered the wrong bulb was in the rear left turn lamp, and the right front had a bulb on it's last leg. (actually died during my tests). At last my signals work correctly.

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu
Date: Tue Aug 13 12:14:49 1996
Subject: Turn Signal Problems

>I need to do some work on my 1970 1600
>Can I fit a turn indicator that will click off after turning a corner ?

Maybe yours is broken or out of adjustment. The switch should have a finger that projects toward the steering shaft, and the finger should move closer to the shaft when the switch is on (left or right). The shaft or steering wheel should have a cam which hits that finger when the switch is on and clears it when the switch is off. An incorrect adjustment is easy to fix by loosening the two screws holding the turn signal switch and moving the switch closer to the shaft.

>Can I turn off the annoying (and battery flattening) "safety feature"
>that leaves the right side lights on when the ignition key is removed ?

Yes. This problem is partly a consequence of the item above. As designed, the side lights come on when the ignition switch is off and the turn signal switch is on (left or right). You could cure this temporarily by switching the turn signals off. You can defeat this feature by removing a couple of wires from the ignition switch. Email me for details.

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13.7.5: Fuses

From: Hood-Douda Mike Hood-Douda
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 1996 19:50:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Oxidized Fuses

Seems that the exposed aluminum fuse material has a natural tendency to oxidize slowly over time. The current warms the metal, the underhood environment is also warm, throw in the ambient humidity, and voila, you have an opportunity for oxidation to occur. Which results in increased resistance. I replace my fuses about twice a year as preventative maintenance.

Date: Mon, 26 Aug 1996 09:59:26 -0400
Subject: Bullet Fuse Remedy

The older BMW models use bullet fuses which often malfunction due to poor fit or oxidation. The fuse contacts should be cleaned on a regular basis. In fact, I used to change the fuses on an annual basis on my 2002 (at $0.05 each, it was cheap peace of mind). When changing these fuses, try to get the copper based fuses rather than the aluminum ones. Also, Wurth Contact OL works great in all types of fuse boxes to remove oxidation. (I just read today about an Anniston, Alabama resident who put a 22 caliber bullet into the fuse box of a Chevy pickup (a perfect fit) and when the circuit was energized, the bullet discharged hitting him in the knee...don't try this on your BMW)

Steve D'Gerolamo c/o The Ultimate Garage, Emerson, NJ (201-262-0412)

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13.7.6: Instruments

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 09:30:38 -0700
Subject: Erratic Temperature Gauge

My '72 2002tii temperature gauge had become gradually more erratic over the past few months. Before, the needle would be steady at mid-scale after the engine warmed up. Recently, it typically read near or in the red range, and it fluctuated with certain electrical loads (turn signal, headlights, a/c, heater fan, etc), going ever higher with more things turned on. These are the classic symptoms of a bad ground connection and a fairly common problem in 2002s.

The troubleshooting and repair were easier than I imagined. Using a digital multimeter, I measured the voltage drop between the battery negative post and the engine, then the drop between the battery and the chassis. Both should be a few tenths of a volt at most, and this was the case with the engine. For the chassis the drop was almost one volt, and it increased to 1.6 volts with more loads turned on. While probing along the chassis leg of the battery ground cable, I saw that it had broken free of the battery terminal due to corrosion and wear. This was the problem. (The battery ground cable has a large wire for the engine and a smaller wire for the chassis.) I temporarily reattached the loose end to the battery, and the gauge got much better. Then I installed a new cable, and now my temperature gauge is rock solid.

The battery ground cable for all 2002s is part number 61-12-1-350-305, and the book price is US$ 16.50.

[See Section 13.7.8]

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13.7.7: Accessories

From: BMW@comet.net (Phil Marx)
Date: Wed, 25 Sep 1996 21:52:24 -0400
Subject: Console switch

>Has anyone found a good switch which fits in the spare hole on the
>center console face? I would like to mount an on/off switch for my
>fuel pump there and haven't been able to find anything at the auto
>stores. Would a 320 fog light switch handle the current load?

Try the 2002 fog light switch  #60-31-1-353-589

or rear fog light switch        61-31-1-356-901 (green)

                                61-31-1-356-873 (orange)

-Phil Marx

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13.7.8: Starter

From: "TK Gustafson"
Date: Fri, 20 Sep 1996 20:29:41 -0700
Subject: <02> electrical problems

After pulling out the Behr AC out of my car, I found that the starter won't engage. It's working the solenoid, (after changing the starter, no help) and has plenty of juice to it. I tried putting jumper cables directly onto the starter lug, and that worked ONCE. Upon further inspection, I noticed with the ignition in start position I have somewhere around 9.5 b+ to the block! I noticed this when I burnt my arm on the throttle return spring. Huh? you ask?? What the #$%@ is going on here is what I thought. So now, the entire dash is ripped apart and I can't find anything wrong there or under the hood. It seems like it's just getting enough power to activate the solenoid, but the juice it needs to crank over is going to the block.

After writing all of this, I'm thinking that the block isn't grounded. It was grounded from the AC compresser. (Battery is in the trunk and grounded to the frame.) As far as I can think, the only place the engine / drivetrain doesn't have rubber mounts somewhere is the throttle linkage by the gas pedal.

[See Section 13.7.6]

TK Gustafson
carrion@cwnet.com
2 '76 '02's

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13.8: Misc

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13.8.1: Shifter feel improvement

From: perelet@wri.com (Oleg Perelet)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 1994 13:54:14 -0600

If shift lever feels loose: take LOWER part of shifter and try to lift it: ^^^^^ if it can be lifted up >1" or you can shake it left/right - plastic linkage bushings (x) and (F) on picture are worn.

At least on 02 you don't have to remove driveshaft to replace bushings. I've done it on my '72 02.

                                          @

                                         /

                                        /  Shift Lever

                                    (D)/

 \==================================== @ ==== Floor Pan ==

             |(x) -Shifter Plate- - - -|--/

 -----------]=[]@----------------------@

 Trans-     ]  ]](A)   / --  (E)     (B)  (C)

 mission    ]]]]]]]]]]/]Driveshaft]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]

            ]  ]]    /

 -----------]    _/

               (F)



02 picture; note (E), (F), and (x)

You need to have allen 8-mm socket, pretty long socket externder (several small extenders are even better - extension will be more flexible, but still strong).

Overall extender lenght should be a bit more than (A) - (C) distance. alse you will need 13-mm and 10-mm wrench and socket.

1. Fix front wheels and right rear wheel, Lift rear left side of car - enough to lift wheel, put car in 3rd gear - you will need this to rotate driveshaft. 2. put support 2-3" bellow trasmission.

3. remove left transmission support bolt. 4. loosen two support bolts on right side. Remove 10-mm bolts connecting exhaust to tranny. Tranny will be lowered on support. 5. remove shifter support flange (F)-(E) - on F side it got plastic bushing - BMW sells it as one pice ~US$30.

-*- easy part done -*-

6. (A) is two metal pieces with plastic bushings (x) in them (~US$10 from BMW). They are connected to transmission using two allen bolts. Shifter plate is connected to transmission thru (x) bushings using 13-mm bolts (#).

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13.8.2: Clutch

---------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 08:58:18 -0700
Subject: 1600 mechanical clutch linkage

>Anyhow, on the motor end of the pivot arm is a white tubular plastic
>piece that apparently fits into something. All I've seen in the
>books is a veiled reference to it fitting into something on the
>motor? I know it's aft of the motor mount on the left side

There is a bracket, #21-11-0-470-050, which attaches to the block as well as the bell housing. Without it, there is no place to attach the mechanical linkage. I know that Carl Nelson at CNPR has some. Give him a call at 1-800-466-8184.

Keith Wollenberg
'72 tii Touring, '88 M5, '95 M3

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13.8.3: Drive Line

From: Oleg Perelet
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 1996 18:31:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Smooth-shifting 2002

>The problem happens most of the time when I'm shifting from second
>to third. As I'm engaging the clutch in third, I can hear a clunk
>noise from somewhere along the drive train. I can also feel a
>slight jolt in the shift lever at the same time.

Here is list of similar problems that I had on my 02's:

1. Worn center bearing on driveshaft - rubber holding bearing breaks, driveshaft moves around. Look under car and find this bearing in the middle of tunnel; on 74 it can be covered with plate, but you'll be able to see it. About $40.

2. IMPORTANT: Engine mounts worn or front subframe cracked, shake engine with hand. Look in book to see where mounts are located. On pre-73 the driver side mount was a weak design, but I had one new style go bad too (on 75). If mounts fail, engine will drop on subframe (still drivable, but ...). Engine mounts are ~$50 for both sides. Subframe cracks under driver side mount: look under intake manufold (use bright light), and you'll see it. Replacement - $??? from junk yard. To replace it you'll have to hold engine with some kind of crane.

3. Rear subframe mounts are bad: again look in book where they are located and look at rubber. Easy to replace, each is about $20.

4. Worn 'guibo' (tranny/driveshaft coupler): look for cracks. About $40.

Oleg
E30M3&02's

From: GREGM2002@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Sep 1996 23:20:30 -0400
Subject: Driveshafts and U-joints

Don Miles wrote a very nice posting on replacing the U-joints on EARLY BMW's; my 1969 2002 with longneck diff does have u-joints retained by circlips. All later BMW's have swaged u-joints that can't be replaced by following Don's procedure. Correct my if I'm wrong but that changed with the advent of the short neck diff in mid-1969 and holds for both 4 and 6 cylinder cars. The irony is that for the shafts that have basically non-replaceable u-joints, you can get the u-joints from the dealer; but you can not get the u-joints that are replaceable. Go Figure! That's the reason that places have sprung up to do the machining to remove and replace the u-joints on all BMW's built since the 1970's.

Greg Mierz
GregM2002@aol.com
Roster Manager, BMWACA Puget Sound
Editor, MTecnic Zundfolge
1969 2002Ti (MPOWER) now with 390,000 miles

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13.8.4: Locks and Keys

From: "John R. Grant"
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 1996 22:03:53 -0600
Subject: Replacement 2002 keys

>I lost the only remaining set of keys to my 72 2002 ... Am I better
>off going to a BMW dealer or a local locksmith to have a key made?

If you're not in a hurry, go to the dealer. They have access to a database maintained by BMW NA which may have the key code for the vehicle. Given the key code, BMW NA can cut a steel (not brass) key which might even fit. Cost is very reasonable, about $7 for the blank, about $5 cutting charge, and its a much nicer key than the brass generic blank you'll get from a locksmith. Very few locksmiths will cut a factory steel key -- they tell me that the key machine "rocks" (grinding wheels) will be destroyed if they try to cut a steel blank (which you can buy at the dealer). Cutting wheels for steel blanks are apparently rare and expensive.

HOWEVER, I and reportedly others have had very mixed experience with the BMW NA keycode database. The key made for my car from this data was not even close to the one and only key which fit the locks. I finally faxed a photocopy of the key to them. Believe it or not, the key returned after they worked from the photocopy ALMOST fit -- It was close enough (off by one cut depth in 3 out of 8 positions) so that I could rekey the locks to work with it (except for the ignition lock, which is a whole 'nuther thread). Now (and presumably for ever more) the keycode on file will make a key that works. In all fairness, the dealer and BMW NA bent over backwards to help me out and the history of the car is somewhat "shady", but it took almost a year!

>Can either the dealer or a locksmith make a key for my trunk lock?

If you're not locked out of the trunk, it should be easy to rekey the trunk lock ... My dealer was no help at all on this. For rekeying issues, you need to find a locksmith who buys his parts from Automotive Security Products. They sell a "keying kit" with the parts you need to make your lock fit any key you can get in the hole.

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13.8.5: Wheels and Tires

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 1996 09:11:22 -0700
Subject: <02> Wheel Nut Torque

>What is the correct torque for lug nuts on a 72 2002 with
>320i wheels (I know, I know, but these are the wheels that
>were on the rusty beast when I bought it)?

Your choices are:







  lb-ft    N-m    Source

 ------- ------- ------------------------------------------------

 59-65    81-89   2002 Repair Manual (all wheels)

   81      110    E30 Owner's Manual (alloy wheels)

 65-79    90-110  Tightening Torques (all vehicles/wheels ca. '89)

From: bthongsa@students.uiuc.edu
Date: Mon, 20 Mar 1995 22:38:28 -0600 (CST)
Subject: OEM 3-series wheels on 2002

>I'm looking for a set of 14-inch OEM alloy 3 series wheels to fit my
>'74 2002. The car has stock bodywork. I have seen these wheels on
>numerous 2002's.
>1. Which wheels fit best? eg. from what year car, width, etc. What
>is the offset measurement of the recommended wheel?

The usual retrofit are the alloy wheels off of any standard E30 car. (i.e. '84-'91 318i, 325/e/es, 325i/is, but NOT from an M3 or 325ix) The usual wheel is the variety with a dish in the middle and 18 spokes along the outer edge; the 325is and 318is came with the BBS mesh style wheels. Either of these styles will work on a 2002.

The standard dished variety is a 6X14 wheel; the 'is' BBS wheel is a 6.5X14. The offset on the 6X14 is 35 mm, I believe; not sure on the 6.5 wheel.

If you presently have steel wheels, you'll also need to replace the lug nuts with ones designed for the alloy wheels.

>2. What tire size is most appropriate for this application?

The usual tire size used is 195/60-14. Fits the 6 or 6.5-inch width well, and the diameter is nearly the same as the stock 165/80-13.

>3. Is there a 15-inch OEM wheel that works?

Not that I'm aware of. Also, in order to maximize the effectiveness of 50 series tires on the 15-inch rims on a 2002, a bit of suspension setup/modification is necessary.

Ben

From: OzCS97@aol.com
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 1995 22:33:31 -0500
Subject: 2002/325 wheels

>1. Which wheels fit best? eg. from what year car, width, etc.
>What is the offset measurement of the reccomended wheel?

You can use either the 14x6 or 6.5 off the earlier 3-series, the 14x6.5 is off the 325is and is a BBS RZ wheel which is also available aftermarket, but is not the exact same wheel as the lip is polished, not painted.

>2. What tire size is most appropriate for this application?

I would use either a 195/60-14 or 185/60-14. The 195's are a more accurate match in overall diameter. I have seem 205/55-14 work on most, but not all attempts, as clearance will vary slightly from one car to the next.

>3. Is there a 15" OEM wheel that works?

Not that I know of. I have run a 15x6.5 wheel on my car with a 27-mm offset and 205/50-15's with no problems, but BMW has never offered that size. I believe that a VW 15-inch wheel off a GTi or Jetta GLi would work with a 1/4-inch spacer and longer studs, but most VW wheels you can find are bent already and I wouldn't suggest spacers anyway.

OZ, alias Robert [alias Bill Ozinga] at the Tire Rack 1.800.428.8355 ext 307

From: Fredrik Skog
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 1995 11:06:53 +0200 (MDT)
Subject: 14x6.5 BBS RAs; wheel offset; wheel studs

>I bought a used set of 14x6.5 BBS RAs to put on my '76 2002, and the
>tire shop to which I took them to be shod is telling me that the
>offset won't work with my hubs as the lug studs are too short. Of
>course, the fellow I bought them from assured me that the offset was
>fine for an '02.

The correct offset for yor car is 29 mm. And I won't recomend you to put on wheels that differ much from that. The earlier model cars, pre '73 i think, has offset 35, the same as the E30 3-series.

>anyone successfully ran RAs on a 2002? Can I replace the lug studs
>with longer ones and expect that to work? Is there anything else I
>should look at/try?

I have a set of 6*15 BBS with offset 33 rimmed with 195/55 tires on my '70 2002ti, and it works fine (except from a little rubbing on the inner fenderwall in FULL turn. The wheel was to thick for my lug studs, so I replaced them with longer ones (I think they're from the rear wheels on a 3.0 Si, if I remember right). I had to try a few different studs before I found the right length. Try the salvage yard if you can, it's a lot cheaper.

Fredrik Skog '70 2002 ti O==00==O
Email: c95fsg@cs.umu.se
WWW: http://www.ts.umu.se/~skog/

From: brian.foster@ccmailsmtp.ast.com Brian Foster
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 96 12:13:54 PST
Subject: 2002 Tires & wheels

>I'm currently running 5.5 x 13 steel 320i wheels and OLD Bridgstone
>RE-71 tires (205/60-13) shoehorned on the rims ... If you have done
>this, what type of wheel was it, or do you remember the offset?

The IT racing guys all run the 13x7 Revolutions (advertised in SportsCar), and they know the offset information you need. You will have to get a big strong burly guy to help pull the fender just a little bit to get the tire to fit underneath, but it should work. Note: one way or another without camber adjustment you will get a little bit of rubbing (inside fender at full lock or on the fender; it'll rub no matter what).

From: racrx@juno.com
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 1996 21:18:03 PST
Subject: TIRE SIZE

>Currently I am running 175/70-13's. I am considering going with a
>205/60-13 (Yoko AVS maybe?). Can I run a 205 safely on a 13 x 5
>rim, or do I need a 13 x 5.5 or 13 x 6? My current rims are 13 x 5
>minilites (yes the real ones).

I currently run the 205/60R13 AVS's. They are great tires. I run a 13x5.5 BBS wheel. It works, but a 13x6 would be ideal. You will have to roll the fenders; the 205 is a wide one.

Kevin Connor

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 1996 13:43:40 -0700
Subject: E30 wheels / tire size for tii

>I just got a set of E30 14-in wheels for my '73 tii and was
>wondering what size tire I should run? I have been running
>205/60-13 on my factory wheels with just a little rub. I would like
>to get some Bridgestone RE71s. I was thinking about 195/55-14, but
>then a guy I work with said 195/55-14s would rub on the tie rods of
>a tii. Is that true? What type and size tire works well on a tii
>with E30 wheels?

I have had 195/55-14 tires (SP 8000) on E30 alloy wheels on my '72 tii for several months. Although the tires are not in contact with the tie rod ends at rest, there is a mark on the tires from occasional contact; the tie rod boots are not damaged. These tires rub the front fender lips occasionally on hard cornering, especially on tight, reverse-camber turns. They also rub the inner fender wall slightly on hard lock turns. None of this rubbing is serious.

Earlier I had 195/60-14 tires. Rubbing with these was similar except slightly worse on the inner fender wall due to the larger outside diameter.

From: ingraham@ssl.berkeley.edu (Curtis A. Ingraham)
Date: Wed, 18 Sep 1996 10:33:51 -0700
Subject: Tire Size Chart

Doug Falls pointed out a grievous and serious error in my earlier 2002 tire size chart:

>the 165/R-13 is slightly taller than the 185/70-13 at 23.4
>vs. 23.2 [inches] respectively.

Since I used the wrong stock diameter and since the order of sizes and percent difference from stock in the table are based on the stock diameter, the stock size was out of order, and _all_ the 'percent' numbers were wrong.

Doug continues:

>From my calculations, the 185/65-14 is the best 14-inch choice,
>as it is the nearest to stock at 23.47. Second best 14-inch is
>the 195/60-14 at 23.2 ... I am considering using E30 (14x6)
>alloys with 185/65HR-14's on my '02 because I really want my
>speedo to be accurate. I am staying away from 195's or 205's
>because I have heard steering is hard at slow speeds.

Bill Ozinga of the Tire Rack confirms that 23.4 inches is the correct diameter of the stock size:

>Your mistake is the 0.70 should have been 0.80. When the
>aspect ratio isn't listed, it's assumed to be between 78-82;
>for mathematics sake, it's usually estimated at 0.80.

And suggests this size for 14-inch wheels: "Use the 195/60-14's."

Well deserved plug for Bill and the Tire Rack:
---------------------------------------------
Bill Ozinga - oz@skyenet.net
Webmaster - The Tire Rack
http://www.tirerack.com
Ph. (888)362-8473 or (219)287-2345 ext. 367
---------------------------------------------

The corrected and expanded chart is as follows:



                                      (2)

                                      Diff.

                               (1)    from

 13-inch   14-inch   15-inch Diameter stock     

  Wheel     Wheel     Wheel  (inches) (%)  Comments

*-------- --------- ---------  ----  ----  ----------------------

          195/55-14            22.4  -4.1  (3,4,5)

175/70-13                      22.6  -3.5

205/60-13                      22.7  -3.0  (7,11)

          185/60-14            22.7  -3.0

                    195/50-15  22.7  -3.0  

          205/55-14            22.9  -2.2  (7)

          175/65-14            23.0  -1.9

195/65-13                      22.9  -1.8     

                    185/55-15  23.0  -1.7

          165/70-14            23.1  -1.3   

                    205/50-15  23.1  -1.3  (7)

          195/60-14            23.2  -0.9  Stock for some E30 (3,8,11)

185/70-13                      23.2  -0.9  Stock for 2002 turbo



165R-13                        23.4   0.0  Stock '02 size (except 

                                           2002 turbo) (11)

                    195/55-15  23.4   0.0

205/65-13                      23.5  +0.4  (7)       

          185/65-14            23.5  +0.4

          205/60-14            23.7  +1.2  (7)

                  185/60-15  23.7  +1.5 

                    205/55-15  23.9  +2.0  (7)

175/80-13                      24.0  +2.5  Rubbing likely

          195/65-14            24.0  +2.5  Stock for most E30 

                                           (3,4,5,6,8)

Notes:

(0) Some sizes may not be available. Check tire weight rating before use.
(1) Diameter is approximate. It varies with tire manufacturer and model. It also decreases about 1.1 % from new tread (10/32 inch) to no tread (2/32 inch).
(2) Assumes stock tire size of 165R13, aspect ratio of 0.80, and diameter of 23.4 inch. Differential ratio is effectively reduced by this amount, e.g. with 195/65-14 tires the stock 3.64:1 ratio becomes 3.55:1. Speedometer reading is reduced by this amount, e.g. with 195/65-14 tires the speedo reads 63.4 at 65 MPH. Speedo reading increases as tires wear (1). Speedo reading varies with normal manufacturing tolerances, typically - -2/+5 % IMO. (3) Slight, occasional rubbing on front inner fender walls at full lock is common with these sizes.
(4) Slight, occasional rubbing on tie rod boots possible on tii.
(5) Slight, occasional rubbing on front fender lips is common.
(6) Slight, occasional rubbing on front apron is possible.
(7) Rolling, trimming, or stretching of fender lips is required; rubbing is likely.
(8) E30 ('84-'91 3-series) 14-inch alloy wheels fit '02s well and are a common upgrade. If tires are included, try for 195/60 rather than 195/65. Replace steel wheel nuts with alloy wheel nuts.
(9) E21 320i wheels fit '02s poorly because of their different offset.
(10) Width: At the stock diameter (23.4 inch), a wider tire will have less clearance; use a smaller diameter for more clearance. Steering effort and pavement groove wander increase with width.
(11) Most popular sizes.

Comments and corrections are appreciated.

From: "TENCCUA.BRUMWE01"
Date: 25 Jul 1996 20:23:20 EDT
Subject: 2002 Autocross Tire Pressures

On my 2002 with ST springs / bars, Bilstein HD's, urethane / Delrin / metal bushings, stess bar, 205/55-13 RE71R (remember those?) tires I'm running 30 psi front and 32 rear. This set up is wonderful for autocross. However, I can't steer with my foot since the car has no power. I have managed to hang with the E30 M3's in our local events.

matt brumwell, smoky mountain chapter 'cca, '75 2002, '87 535is, '88 M3

From: Stuart Raike
Date: Tue, 14 Nov 1995 07:56:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Wurth Paint for wheels

>Could someone tell me where to buy the Wurth silver spray paint for
>wheels, and how much paint is needed to do one side of four rims?

You can call Imparts at 1-800-325-9043 or Bavarian Autosport at 1-800-535-2002. Both carry it. Two cans should be sufficient for only one side of four wheels. I recommend getting a can of the Wurth Clear Lacquer as a top coat. The clear makes them look much better and clean up easier.

Stu Raike
'92 325i
'82 320i

From: mudshark@esper.com
Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 00:23:07 -0400
Subject: BMW bolt circle info

>Does anyone know the bolt circle diameter for BMW 5-bolt wheels?

According to the 1995 Yokohama Fitment Guide, BMW used only two bolt circle diameters. They are 5x120 mm and 4x100 mm.

Gene Westburg
'84 318i 206K "the mudshark"
'73 2002 118K "cosmic debris" project
'76 530i 60K the other project

Back to top

13.8.6: Gas, Brake, and Clutch Pedals

From: "TENCCUA.BRUMWE01"
Date: 19 Jul 1996 18:05:18 EDT
Subject: Sticking gas pedal

There are several places in the linkage of the 2002 that could be causing a problem. I'm going to assume you are not running sidedrafts in this case. My example is for a 32/36 DGAV Weber, but I think the Solex is close.

The first thing to do is to remove the gas pedal by lightly prying it off the two ball joints on the floor, then sliding it right. Check to make sure that the carpet (or floor mats) are not binding in any way. Clean the ball joints and apply a little grease. Also clean the track that the pedal shaft goes through.

Now the hard part. On my car that shaft was actually rusted (surprise, surprise) where it goes through the bushings in the pedal box. I don't remember the exact order of doing things, but I think a couple c-clips can be removed, the linkage detached, and the whole pedal arm can be slid right out. I used a wire wheel to polish mine and regrease it with Mobil 1 synthetic grease. You can put that back in and reattach the pedal.

On the fire wall is a shaft that the lower linkage attaches to. Disconnect the lower linkage and the big return spring. Remove this and clean both ends, including the female parts on the firewall and carburetor. BTW, you can adjust overall pedal feel by using a different hole on this shaft with the big return spring.

While this shaft is off, try working the linkage on the carburetor. If it's still sticking, try cleaning the outside parts of the linkage really well, including the carb return spring. If it's sticking after this, it may be time to do a serious rebuild of the carb. While you're in there check the straightness of the shaft that the butterflies are attached to and look for obvious signs of binding, like fresh metal showing.

When you're done you will have to readjust the pedal height and linkage movement so you do get full throttle travel.

matt brumwell, smoky mountain chapter 'cca, '75 2002 autocrosser '87 535is, '88 M3 event / track car

From: Sam Chien-shin Lin
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 96 15:38:06 -0700
Subject: Gas Pedal Resistance

There's a white nylon roller on the pedal linkage coming up thru the floor. [It fits into a metal slot on the underside of the pedal.] It often gets worn out. Sometimes you can get away with just rotating it a bit.

Otherwise, try lubing the various joints in the throttle linkage and the spring in the pedal box.

-sam

From: "Steve D'Gerolamo"
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 1996 08:27:05 -0400
Subject: 2002 Gas Pedal Bushings

I would advise anyone with a sticking gas pedal to replace the following bushings: Slide Bushing @ Accelerator Pedal (35-41-4-440-122), Pedal Shaft Bushings @ Pedal Box (qty=2) (35-41-1-108-237) and while you're at it, you might as well replace the Torsion Spring for the Accelerator Rod @ the Pedal Bucket (35-41-1-108-676). Parts cost should be under $5.00 and labor about 30 minutes. The underside of my 76 2002 took a bath of salt water at the NJ shore and replacing the above items was the only way I was able to get a smooth pedal back.

Steve D'Gerolamo, c/o The Parts Co-op, 201-262-0412

From: William Boyd
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 01:00:17 -0700
Subject: Gas pedal sticking -- WOT!

Just wanted to add a paragraph to the 2002 sticky gas pedal discussion recently in the digest. Here's something I read in the BMWCCA Tech Tips (1979) that could be a safety issue upon reassmbly of the linkage (originally printed in the BMW Automobile Club of America's Puget Sound Chapter newsletter "Aus Freude Am Fahren"):

"Potential Throttle Linkage Hazards

"Four-cylinder throttle return springs can be improperly installed, exposing the hook of the spring to the heater hose. If the hook catches against the hose, it can hold the throttle open. The heater hose bends beneath the throttle linkage, passing very closely to it. There is a potentially dangerous incorrect re-installation position, where the hook can hang up on the hose. The correct installation has the hook facing away from the hose. Even with the spring on correctly, care must be taken to insure the heater hose is properly installed, since inadequate clearance between the hose and the rest of the linkage may also cause the throttle to stick open."

From: Oleg Perelet
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 1996 12:28:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: pedal cluster

>How do I completely remove the gas pedal linkage from the pedal
>cluster.

From inside: